Manila Inasal remixes Filipino food with fun family-reunion energy - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Before opening their restaurant, the family behind Manila Inasal ran a catering business delivering trays of grilled meat, lumpia, and sisig to birthdays and baptisms. The party is still alive and well.
From the outside, this Filipino spot looks like just another tenant in a quiet Silver Lake strip mall, but inside, it’s all sizzling plates, tables shoved together to make room for one more cousin, and off-key sing-alongs. “Happy Birthday” gets belted at least three times during every meal. Maybe four, if you count singing silently in your head thirty minutes after dinner.
Everyone sings because everyone in the room knows each other—or at least wants to. The front of house is run by a pair of siblings, who partnered with a chef who has several restaurants in the Philippines, and there’s a good chance that someone's relative will swing by your table to deliver plates or say hi. Water refills can be slow, and dishes occasionally arrive in a random order, but the whole meal has a genuine warmth to it, and Manila Inasal's scrappiness is part of the fun. At some point during dinner, you might find yourself pouring an extra glass of lemongrass-calamansi tea for someone at the table next to you.
photo credit: Kim Fox
photo credit: Kim Fox
photo credit: Kim Fox
photo credit: Kim Fox
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There'll be enough food to share with strangers, too, as portions are what you'd expect from a place that once relied on big aluminum trays. Manila Inasal's best dishes tend to be the most creative ones, so prioritize those over the more straightforward Filipino staples, which occasionally arrive overcooked or too salty. We're big fans of the laing reimagined as a dip with slices of housemade focaccia, a crab-stuffed tortang talong gets splotched with roe and calamansi aioli, and the kare kare in a macadamia nut and crab fat gravy clings onto every chunk of braised oxtail. There's also a flaky milkfish inasal that's so flavorful you'll barely need more than a splash of the green chile sauce. It's not exactly experimental, but you'll be hard pressed to find another version quite like it in LA.
Of course, there’s a soundtrack for all of those plates being passed around. On weekends, the dining room reaches peak volume with live music (and all of the aforementioned "Happy Birthdays"). Sometimes, it’s local Filipino musicians, but often, it’s the owner’s dad strumming his guitar under the neon sign in the corner. Even if you don’t know the song, you’ll probably end up humming along with the rest of the room. That's just what Manila Inasal does best.
Food Rundown
Laing Focaccia
Our favorite appetizer. Creamy, coconutty stewed taro leaves show up in a ramekin like it’s spinach artichoke dip, and the olive-oil soaked house focaccia is a perfect vehicle for scooping.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Lumpiang Shanghai
Nothing revolutionary—just a classic done right. These delicious little cigars are so tightly rolled that they could survive one of those iPhone drop tests. They’re golden not greasy, filled with garlicky ground pork, and served with the quintessential sweet-sour dipping sauce.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Grilled Bangus Inasal
There are two inasals on the menu (chicken and fish), and this is the one to get. Served whole, the milkfish tastes like it was marinated in citrus and salt for the duration of its life. It’s grilled until the skin blisters, and paired with a green chile sauce and spiced vinegar. Not that you’ll need much of them.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Grilled Chicken Inasal
One of the more forgettable dishes on the menu. The chicken is nicely charred, but compared to the flashier fish inasal, it’s like the sibling who goes to bed before the party really starts.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Crab Tortang Talong
This tortang talong is the hottest dish in the room. A smoky omelet is stuffed with sweet crab, then bejeweled with aioli and salmon roe. Whoever did this glam up knew what they were doing.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Lechon Belly Sisig
This crispy, charred pork belly arrives at the table crackling like a campfire, ready to be mixed up with the runny egg yolk. Unfortunately though, it's also a salt bomb—bordering on that time the time you licked a salt lamp in second grade. The side of garlic rice helps balance things somewhat, but there are better dishes on the menu to prioritize first.
photo credit: Kim Fox
Beef & Oxtail Kare Kare
Sure, the oxtail is falling off the bone and eggplant is stewed until it's soft, but the best part of this dish is the thick, nutty gravy that you’ll end up licking off the serving spoon—and porbably get side-eyed for.
photo credit: Kim Fox" - Cathy Park