Michael Y.
Yelp
My wife and I ate at Marsanne last Friday night with a very good friend who was a pescatarian, I am a big meat eater so it was an adjustment - BUT, since we decided to share everything, looking back it was a great chance to diverge from the normal and take - literally - the road less eaten (like how I did that?). We ate mostly the vegetable and fish although we did have the chicken that was recommended by the manger/owner, Milos (who looks like a cross between a professional volley ball player and a Seal Team 6 leader - but was weirdly gentle and kind, the duality was striking). I was not really surprised that they had a lot of choices for pesca-vegetarians that were amazing, but I was pleasantly surprised that they were most definitely worth ordering, but more on the food later...
First, the place is stunningly designed. The chairs are gorgeous, soft leather seats that feel like a warm hug before your meal. The wood for the tables was thick and perfectly balanced (don't you hate a wobbly table?). And, we were told, all the handmade furniture was sourced from the Balkans. When you go, you have to see the featured art piece - from an artist in Serbia (I hope I am correct) that takes up an entire wall in the back of the restaurant. Stand in front of it and take it all in, the art gives you a sense that it is actually moving, slowly, gracefully, with balance and coordination - all things I would say about the staff, who were helpful, efficient and attentive yet never intrusive or urging. I don't remember ever asking our server for more water or for a wine refill - magically all that just happened. Also, the food was perfectly timed, dishes were cleared after everyone was finished and we were given just the right amount of rest after the appetizers - about 11 minutes.
What was a really great and welcomed surprise was the fact that the lighting was carefully balanced with the abundance of outdoor light, and as the sun waned, the lighting was brought up to maintain the balance, unlike most restaurants where you have to reach out and touch your neighbor just to make sure they are still there. Also, the music didn't compete with the conversation and was so good that I have no idea what was playing. All this ambiance added up to a complete sense of comfort and familiarity without a trace of detachment or arrogance.
Which is the same thing I can say for the food. While definitely high-end and luxurious, it simultaneously tasted familiar and accessible (cucina povera in Italian). The chef didn't seem like they were showing off with off-putting flavors or heavy sauces that get in the way of the natural flavors of the ingredients themselves. The highlight of our appetizers was the Pan Seared scallops cooked to perfection with a traditional Sicilian eggplant caponata and pine nuts to provide a bit of elegance, as well as the Beetroot Carpaccio - the goat cheese-mustard was dreamy-creamy, but the panache was in the pistachio. Then we had the homemade pasta Agnolotti, which was so smoky it was sipped like a 10 year old Laphroaig. The Entrees were the Branzino, which had a crunchy fennel mix which reminded me of those pop-rocks we ate as kids - crunchy, tender with just the right amount of sweetness. And the STAR of the show was the Chicken Duo, as someone else stated, I too would NEVER order chicken at a restaurant, it is common, mostly bland and usually oversauced to hide, not feature, the meat - but alas my friends, I will stand on top of the highest tower in NY and shout at the top of my lungs: ORDER THE CHICKEN! The chicken was purrrfectly juicy and succulent - yes, I said succulent for chicken. The reason it was so amazing was it was given a bath, sous vide style, before coming to our table. The hollandaise foam, although amazing, wasn't even needed as the meat - did I say it was chicken - was perfect all by itself. Get the chicken, get the chicken and... oh yeah, get the chicken. I don't think I could've had have a better meal if I ordered the Foie Gras and the Hanger Steak... or could I? I guess I will have to ditch the pescatarian and bring a meat-eating friend next time, but then I would have to share... Decisions, decisions. But there is one decision that is already made, I will be back - again and again. Don't miss this place while you can still get a seat, it will definitely catch on fast.