Alex P.
Yelp
Eating sushi in the mountains somehow just feels wrong. It comes from far away, sitting on planes first, then at least a few hours in the truck before it even starts landing in the freezer of the restaurant. Then there is the whole situation with the locals who are more used to eating or preparing a braised deer belly than they are a raw fish. The entire concept just feels disturbing, but perhaps it's just a mental discomfort, or so I thought. Then, in the glitzy town of Vail, shows up a location of Matsuhisa by Nobu, representing a Colorado version of the larger Nobu chain, focusing on a similar luxury sushi experience that requires no introduction for a seasoned traveler.
So, what can go wrong with such a concept? Well, let's start with the fish itself. The freshness and taste is simply not there and is miles away from flagship restaurants in New York, Malibu and Miami. The pure fish just does not taste as good. Secondly, transporting to a couple signature dishes such as yellowtail jalapeño, the elements of poor preparation also begin to glare. Muscular, uneven cuts, that are chewy and would better belong in a poke bowl joint than a fine dining establishment. Other dishes such as the spicy tuna crispy rice are "ok", but again the rice is not right and way stickier than it should be. Then there is the miso soup that is unbearably over salted. There was a dish that was done quite well, which was the sashimi with truffles. From a service standpoint, all was solid and the vibe is certainly there in the restaurant. The design is nothing to brag about, but there is a fireplace and a large space. It isn't comparable in pretentious glitz to some of the Nobu locations, but neither is it supposed to be.
Taking all factors into account, Matsuhisa is not a terrible place to grab some sushi if the urge is unavoidable, but it has a long way to go to rival higher end sushi establishments in most cities.