Patti K.
Yelp
Imagine that your eccentric Japanese aunt decided to move to Minneapolis and set up a spot for her homesick expatriate friends. She's got grandchildren coming through creating crayon and finger paint art, which she mounts on homemade hanging decorations. She created a whimsical space with origami, upside down paper umbrellas, and colors that remind you of a Japanese summer festival. All her friends crafted decorations from Japanese materials scrounged up from somewhere, the likes of which you will never see in Japan but somehow still remind you of Japan, not Pier 1. She cooks up food just like her mom made in postwar Japan, and she serves them on dishes that look like they've been collected in Japanese fleamarkets over the past half-century. In the background she plays some CDs that she scooped up on her last trip to Japan. It's stuff that she likes, not J-pop her customers might prefer.
I have no idea if that actually happened, but that's exactly how I feel when I walk into Midori's Floating World Café.
As Asian food increases in popularity and availability, my expectations for Asian food, particularly Japanese food, just goes down year to year. I completely did not expect this place to knock my socks off.
It started with the salad. The salad dressing seems to have been handmade, with fresh herbs and a taste that seemed both familiar and new. The rice was cooked perfectly, not overcooked and no browned bits from the bottom of the rice cooker (which does happen in restaurants, believe it or not). The rice was sprinkled with black sesame seeds, a nice touch. My mackerel box dinner had just the right amount of food, and was beautifully arranged. The mackerel was tender and cooked perfectly. The meal also came with small portions of seaweed salad and somen (thin noodle) salad served in sake cups. There were small slices of banana, orange, and apple carefully arranged, with a small cluster of Japanese pickles in the center. The restaurant seemed to have no interest in catering to supersized American tastes, or the Midwestern custom of fried things with cheese (although I did see some kind of cream cheese wonton in the dessert menu). For me, the real showstopper was the yakiniku (thinly sliced beef cooked with broth and vegetables). Most places season it with sugar and soy sauce and call it a day, and on a good day you might get sesame oil and hot pepper for an extra kick. This dish was made with love. The beef was simmered slowly with small slices of vegetables such as red bell pepper and kabocha squash, with layers and layers of flavor. I couldn't identify everything, but I definitely tasted ginger and the proprietor (I assume this was Midori) said it was cooked in vegetable broth.
The menu was relatively standard for Japanese restaurant. Don't expect pages and pages of exotic rolls named after baseball players or inventive dishes like burdock root sticks served with Camembert cheese. But I have a soft spot in my heart for places that focus on the basics, and do them really well. This restaurant fits in that category.
I imagine most Yelp reviews will focus on sushi, ignoring the fact that most real Japanese people don't eat sushi very often. But for your homesick Japanese friend or relative who really cares about Japanese food, you need to take them here. I think they would be pretty happy.