Lu-Shien T.
Yelp
As I have discovered at most Michelin star restaurants, the entire point of the prix fixe menus is to showcase what the master chef and sommelier choreographed for you. So their signature menus are usually the way to go in sequence and wine pairings. Therefore, we ordered master chef Maria Jose San Ramon's 16 course signature menu with the 8 wine pairing curated by master sommelier Lorena Rios.
In retrospect, I should have taken notes on the wine profiles, I recall bubbly Cava that had rounded lush fruit notes reminiscent of sauvignon blanc. A white wine grown in volcanic soil that had a pronounced sulfur scent woven into its profile. White wine that had a genteel whisky bouquet. Each wine was a unique outlier in its category--a clear flex and daring choice by the sommelier. Lesson learned.
Oyster--first course, first impression. The oyster was garnished with a bit of microgreens and large flecks of salt. No lemon--instead, fennel and lettuce juice coaxed a subtle interest. The oyster was sweet and springy like a scallop or clam mussel. Slightly briny, touch of mineral bite--not creamy like an oyster from cold water or about to propagate.
Mussel--the flesh was firm and springy, and the pickling process left an emulsion that combined with the mussel essence.
Tomato & Spicy Red Pepper--this item did well as a palette cleanser between the oyster and mussel. Bright and punchy, it reminded me of a freshly made chutney.
Smoked Tuna belly with Fig sauce--the smoking process firmed up this foil of flesh and supported it with the earthy sweet fig sauce. Paired really well with:
Shrimp with rock salt and olive oil--we were instructed to rest the raw shrimp on the rock salt for 15 seconds. The amaebi (sweet-prawn) velvety silk texture and sweetness was particularly rich. I noticed a few dots of blue on the shrimp--perhaps from the coral (head) to enrich it?
Squid with Kale and manchego pesto--they shaved the squid into thin sheets before cutting it into "noodles" then dressed it with a perfectly balanced pesto to harmonize the sweetness and inherent flavor of the squid. Texture was perfect tender strips with a delectable springiness
Iberico Pork with bean butter and saffron crumbs--the moist and tender pork was flaking as I lifted it, lush with resilience, the signature earthy meatiness gave way to herbal tones as the saffron kicked on with a gentle acrid nudge.
Red prawn with coral, saffron, EVOO--this was a bold course. Once again, firm, velvety flesh, heady coral (from the prawn head). After eating the flesh, I squished the head to release more raw coral into the EVOO emulsion in the dish and dipped pieces of bread to sop it up. Delicious.
Smoked Lechola (Lemon fish) with chickpeas and chard, horseradish, sumac, capers--this dish was eye-candy! Firm whiteflesh fish coiled tightly in rolls, dusted with sumac (the same stuff on middle-eastern dishes), with a green custard made from the chard with a hit of horseradish twang and thickened with xanthan gum (?). The crunchy chickpeas added textural interest.
Scampi with veal leg and Cochinita Pibil sauce--another sweet crustacean, but cooked. Add decadent fatty veal leg with mild meatiness, then the distinct sauce popular in the Yucatan peninsula and and a fried manioc (?) chip on top and this plate is fire!
Rice with lentils, white beans and vegetables--clean cut but packet with flavor and crunchy texture from the lentils, this dish offset the lush richness of the last plate.
Monkfish with seaweed and plankton--so, while I liked the mild tasting tender fish, and the micro carrot and shard of green onion, I felt that the pickled seaweed and plankton sauce was too mild for me to notice much. But the sauce was an assuring companion to the fish.
Lamb tartar with coffee, and green wheat "freekah"--the lamb was lightly hand macerated, leaving plenty of bite. The coffee melded with the lamb juices and olive oil, creating a cohesive sauce that bridged the freekah and the meat. The freekah was nice to chew, having a texture similarly to barley. (Is it just me, or is "freekah" really fun to say! :D
Green wheat curd with strawberries, watermelon and apple--the wheat curd had a texture like panacotta, and the fresh fruits lifted and refreshed the palette.
Chocolate waffle, EVOO and salt--reminded me of a dark chocolate ganache and tweaked with seasalt.
Small pastries--the chocolate truffle was edgy with cocoa dust and dark chocolate ganache (?). The quince was bright and a citrusy contrast to the chocolate. The orange saffron muffin bite bridge these two items. And the pineapple juice infused melon was a refreshing end to this course.
Even the Espresso was pristine--the machine was cleaned frequently!
Exemplary service staff who waited discreetly and patiently for our table conversation to pause before describing the food they are presenting.
Gorgeous venue at the marina.
