Jane D.
Yelp
This newcomer -- less than six months old -- serves the most authentic, well made dim sum you'll find on the UWS and probably in northern Manhattan. We had to order our food for takeout since we were in transit (as always), but the restaurant was so pleasant inside, cozy, clean, and family friendly that we wouldn't mind coming back for an eat-in meal.
- Steamed bean curd roll with pork ($8) -- This was really the dish that drew me here. I recently bought a package of yuba sheets and, wanting to replicate this old dim sum favorite, needed a good specimen of steamed bean curd roll to dissect. Moon Kee's version did not disappoint. The yuba skin wrapping was just the right combination of firm and tender, while the innards were fetchingly stuffed with bamboo shoots and tender ground pork in good balance. The three rolls we received in the order were perfectly seasoned and did not need the additional sauce that was provided.
- Pan fried turnip cake with pork ($7) -- Really well-made pan fried turnip cakes make my heart go pitter patter. Perhaps in part because we weren't able to eat these immediately, I found Moon Kee's version to be good -- certainly the best I've had on the UWS -- but not stellar. Sadly, they were missing the beautiful, caramelized pan-crusted exterior I so enjoy. (It's sort of like having quick, shortcut paella with no socarrat: potentially fine.... but the socarrat makes is so very much better!!.) Little chunks of daikon radish added some pleasant textural contrast. I really didn't need or want the pork (diced roasted pork), which for me was just a distraction from gently sweet, creamy daikon whose more acrid, radishy elements had been beautifully tempered by heat. I would love to see a vegetarian version on the menu -- and next time we are certainly going to order these while dining in.
- Minced beef and roasted pork rice rolls ($8 each) -- These were the only dishes we tried that I probably wouldn't order again unless I found myself unable to go to Cozy Rice in midtown. Moon Kee's version had a pleasantly slippery, chewy texture, thankfully very different from the stiff, thick, manicotti-like specimens I recently tried at Ho Won. But they must have been double the thickness of the rolls served at Cozy Rice or Yin Ji Chang Feng and of course were not nearly as tender. I didn't personally love the roasted pork filling (too indelicate) or the minced beef filling, which had fused into a solid layer, but neither was outside the realm of good standard fare. Rice rolls / cheung fun (or however one Romanizes this) are really something you have to get at a specialty vendor, I'm starting to realize.
- Steamed sticky rice and pork in lotus leaf ($8) -- Alright. I'm a sucker for anything steamed and wrapped in a leaf, it seems: tamales, zongzi, and of course these lo mai gai, as well. Instead of the banana leaves used for zongzi, lo mai gai is wrapped in lotus leaves, which imparts its own, lovely fragrance and flavors to the glutinous rice as it steams inside. This version was, in the Cantonese fashion, not heavily seasoned, the rice left white rather than darkened with soy sauce or other seasonings. The stuffing was similarly straightforward, including only two ingredients: diced roast pork (which seems to be in every menu item!!) and Chinese sausage / xian chang. I am personally a fan of a mushroom-heavy lo mai gai, but this version was enjoyable, the all-important rice flavorful and well prepared.
Moon Kee does not serve the absolute best dim sum to be had in NYC, but this kitchen seems to be quite competent and authentic, down to the ducks hanging in the window up front. And it certainly beats the pants off of anyplace else I can think of on the UWS (Dim Sum Bloom, Shun Lee, Red Farm, the late Jing Fong, etc...) We look forward to coming again.