Bud C.
Yelp
If you think the best barbecue is always found in the worst part of town, in a place with bars on the windows and just enough grease on the table to write your initials, then this isn't it.
If, on the other hand, you think it can be found hidden off the main drag, off the parking lot in a courtyard in an upscale neighborhood shopping center, you would have found a barbecue restaurant that you'd never know, by its name is a barbecue restaurant.
And one who could do a lot better with just a little effort.
It may be just me, but Morty's Meat and Supply does exactly scream Barbecue. For example is there any question what they serve at, 'Cue Barbecue, Spice Right Rib House, City Barbecue, Brew and Que, Anna's Barbecue? all high profile Atlanta barbecue joints that compete for folks who really barbecue.
As someone who has spent a lifetime in pursuit of the perfect barbecue (read more than 25 Yelp reviews covering barbecue joints from New York City to San Diego), the Brown Shoe Gourmet was pumped to discover that there was a barbecue joint (as are all places that sell 'cue are called) in his own neighborhood, and then disappointed to learn it had been there for three months and never knew.
Yes, as a couple Yelp reviewers noted, their prices tend towards the high side.
Yes, as a couple Yelp reviewers noted, no one is really sure just how much meat a quarter pound of meat really is until they see the dallop on the tray (where's the slice of bread that should come with it?). Why not offer your customers sandwiches with sides ( one or two depending upon their appetite and wallet ) or platters with more meat and two sides for more money?
Morty's brisket, both times we've tried, has been on the dry side. Why? Because they either trim off that thin layer of fat that absorbs all the smoke flavor and/or they keep it under the warming light too long. Righteous Barbecue, offers its customers lean (for those who think they can eat healthy at a barbecue joint) or full flavor brisket.
The pulled pork, on the other hand (the one without the watch) is good. Really good. Moist, with nice smoke flavor. The ribs were fair to middlin' - they have a rub that brought out a salt like flavor. MMS' smoked turkey pastrami rubbed was second to the pulled pork. Good flavor, and something a little different (more on different a couple inches down).
Sides you ask? A bunch. Several exceptional. At the top of the list, something Morty calls Bubbie's corn pudding. Don't know the background for the name, do know it was severed in generous portion and tops Spiced Right's corn soufflé as the best in class. The fried potato wedges were also very good. Just right seasoning and good enough to make you forget counting calories.
Their marinated cucumber salad was also pretty good, but not sure whoever came up with Brussel sprouts slaw, but I've not yet acquired a taste for it. Their NY deli potato salad offers nothing to really separate it from everyone else's,
One of the too many unique things about Morty's is that they have two entrances. One door where you order at the cash register, the other door where you grab a table (in a manner of speaking) and a very friendly person will take you order. Menu and prices are the same regardless which door you choose.
The sauces, five of them, are all on very big containers from which you can pour maybe an ounce into a tiny paper cup... so you and up making two trips just to figure out which one you like best before getting enough for your meal. (Hint: the mustard one is like most other Carolina mustard based sauces, and good on the pulled pork). The apple barbecue sauce is not too hot, their hot sauce is.
Then there's the service: Fast, friendly and with answers to all your questions including why you have to get your sauce in those tiny cups (because people steal the bottles off the table). Well, maybe so - but having them there it would make eating there a bit more convenient and cut down on lines at the sauce dispensary as they have at City Barbecue.
There's one other thing that may help explain why Morty skillfully avoided the word 'barbecue' in naming his barbecue joint (if any restaurant in upscale Dunwoody can be called a 'joint'), and that's because every day they have a special (trying to be all things to all people) that is not barbecue... from fried chicken on Sunday to Lasagna and Tacos and smoked salmon during the week.
Morty's has a competitor almost just across the street, Porter's Brew n 'Cue and needs to step up his game if he's to be the best barbecue Dunwoody has to offer.
Three stars.
