Yin Lau
Google
Stepping into Na Rath in Elmhurst, Queens, feels like walking into a secret garden, a swirl of vibrant colors and twinkling Christmas lights that immediately sets the tone for what’s to come. It’s intimate, with just enough seating to feel exclusive, and I managed to snag a coveted window spot, a front,row seat to what would be an unforgettable meal.
Having traveled to Thailand multiple times, I’ve developed a taste for what’s authentic and what’s been diluted to cater to American palates. Na Rath? It’s the real deal. Much to my surprise and delight, my dishes were prepared by Chef Bass himself, a chef who has cooked for Thai royalty. Yes, that Chef Bass.
I started with the raw salmon spicy salad and raw shrimp sashimi, and let me tell you, these dishes are an instant transport back to the markets of Bangkok. Each bite was alive with heat, acid, and freshness, a sensory reminder of Khlong Toei Market at its most vibrant. Then came the chili lime steamed tilapia, a dish where every ingredient—from the fiery chili to the zesty lime and aromatic garlic…felt perfectly in balance. It was the kind of dish that makes you close your eyes and savor every flavor.
And then there was the Tom Yum Kung w prawns. This is not a soup to sip, it’s a soup to be embraced, fiery and bursting with lemongrass, kept hot by a chafing fuel flame. Because let’s be honest, soup should be served hot, not lukewarm.
The crab fried rice. Forget imitation crab, this was the real thing, jumbo chunks of sweet crab meat nestled in perfectly cooked rice. It felt indulgent yet comforting, the kind of dish you’d cross boroughs for.
The standout? The lobster khao soi. This Northern Thai classic combines a creamy, rich coconut curry broth with tender boiled egg noodles, crispy fried noodles for texture, and a medley of tangy and fried chilies topped with lime and cilantro. The addition of juicy, tender lobster tail takes this dish to the next level, making it both comforting and luxurious. It’s a must-try.
Dessert brought an unexpected surprise: taro custard paired with vanilla ice cream. A salty,sweet revelation, it was a refreshing alternative to the usual mango sticky rice, and my father couldn’t stop raving about the combo. Even the Thai iced tea had its own twist, topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The lychee iced tea packed a punch, a little too strong for a lightweight like me, but perfect for anyone who loves bold flavors.
Na Rath also offers a buffet, but don’t let that word fool you. This isn’t your typical steam,table setup. Each dish is cooked to order, arriving hot and fresh, a far cry from the sad, lukewarm offerings most buffets are known for. It’s a concept that feels just as thoughtful as the rest of the dining experience.
