Kevin K.
Yelp
Kashgar to Bukhara - 615 miles apart, or 4 miles, depending on your views.
In every shopping mall food court there is a black sheep location - the place next to the restrooms. Management tends to charge less rent for that spot, which makes for the place to watch for newcomers. Take for instance the spot near the restrooms at the New World Mall food court - before the presence of Tarim it was the Kebab Empires. Considering that cumin kebab stands are all over downtown Flushing, a bit of retooling is in order.
What's the deal with Uighur food? It's a Central Asian cuisine with a rich culinary heritage derived from the Silk Road trade between Europe, The Middle East and Asia. Kashgar (a city in the region) sat on the extreme western edge of China - It's 3000 miles between the ancient Silk Road city of Bukhara in Uzbekistan (roughly the same as LA to NYC), and the Chinese capital of Beijing. Kashgar is only 615 miles from Bukhara (roughly the same as Chicago and NYC) and due to its proximity, there is a greater similarity between Uighur and Bukharian cuisine versus the Chinese - protein is usually lamb (or chicken), starch is either rice (or wheat noodles), and not everything is nearly as spicy as you might have thought.
What does Bukharian food tastes like? It's available 4 miles away from Flushing in Rego Park - there is a large population of Bukharian Jews who emigrated in the early 2000s, and they opened up a plethora of joints that serves up samsa, plov and other various popular dishes of the old Soviet Union. Samsas are little meat turnovers with an almost sweet onion and meat filling. Plov is like rice dish braised with lamb, onions, carrots and raisins...similar to a Biryani. Lagman is a chewy noodle soup that features bell peppers, onions, beef (or lamb) in a rich soup that contains tomato flavors. Since the entire area is Jewish they are closed on Friday Nights and Saturdays, and you can't mix dairy and meat.
So why bring up Bukharian when comparing with Uighur food? Because you totally see similarities in one versus the other - for example, the samsas at Tarim is very similar to the ones at Rokkat (bakery in Rego Park). There's some type of lamb (or pumpkin) filling. The stir fried noodles are chewy and very similar to the roast laghman served in Rego joints). The pilaf (抓飯) is a similar analogy to their Bukharian cousins - rice, lamb, carrots, and in a more local twist, features raisins. Eh, it's not exactly steamed white basmati rice typically done in Thai or southern Chinese households. Of course, you got your cuminy lamb kebabs, but then even the Hans got into that so seeing it on the menu is not a major surprise, and there's 大盤雞 dapanji or "big platter chicken", which is a spicy chicken and potato stew that everyone thinks is Uyghur but it's really just a garbage bowl served to truck drivers travelling between Western and Central China in the 1970s invented by a Han restaurant manager from Sichuan - if you ever had Korean Dakdoritang, it's essentially the same thing. It's Ugyhur the same way malasadas and manapua are Hawaiian...it's served there but it's certainly not native.
So, why Tarim? Well, because every stall in New World mall sells malatang (which is the Sichuan garbage bowl), you are getting sick and tired of dumplings, and it's time to put on the big boy pants and give something new a try. So yeah, give that pilaf here a try, have some laghman, and then drop by places like Cheburechnaya in Rego Park on a Sunday evening. You'll be surprised how similar and tasty things are.