Edmond C.
Yelp
Next Door by Wegmans is a welcome addition to the increasingly competitive sushi scene in NYC. I came here with a friend on a Friday evening via Open Table at 8:15. They allowed me to seat a little early and this allowed me time to review the menu offerings. My friend said she would be okay with whatever I ordered, but I waited for her.
We agreed the interior decor is very pleasing to the eyes. The color palette is somewhat neutral and very calm. I would not know how to categorize the style of interior design. Someone would have to help me on this aspect.
I ordered the Kubota Manjyua Junmai Daiginjo sake. You will want at least a carafe of that fresh melon and pear forward sake. The same was a great pairing for our meal. The description is accurate. I ordered the koji marinated ribeye, medium as a compromise between our temperature preferences, and the whole Branzino as our mains. The chirashi maki roll with salmon, tuna and yellowtail is fresh, substantial and satisfying. The grilled zucchini paired well with the Branzino and they bring you their roasted shiseido peppers on the house.
The primary attribute of Next Door is the freshness quotient. Everything is fresh. It was primarily noticeable with the maki roll, then the whole Branzino, the latter of which is accompanied by three sauces: chili oil, truffle, and a cilantro citrus sauce. The fresh Branzino with its crispy skin and great preparation, not overcooked, stood on its own. The Branzino does not need the sauces from my experience.
The steak was still juicy at medium. I prefer medium rare, but the compromise was good for me and good for her. She appreciated its juicy nature and we shall see if that influences her to order at a lower temperature next time. By the way, the steak and Branzino come presliced for one to work with the chopsticks; though, the Branzino comes in rather substantial slices owing to the delicacy of the fish and it would likely fall apart if sliced too thinly. The Branzino was slightly better than the steak in my opinion and the Branzino will likely become one of the star offerings from this menu. It comes with sea salt as well and a garnish of shredded carrots and radishes. The garnish accompanies many dishes and the sauces repeat as well.
The roasted shiseido peppers are very good as well with their own sauce that has a creaminess as counterpoint to the roasted peppers. The roasted shiseido peppers require a bit of a mature palate to appreciate their flavor in a highly roasted, almost black, state. You'll get the earthy and nutty flavors, but the sauce is a great counterpoint and a nice texture counterpoint to everything else you are experiencing.
For dessert, we split the semifreddo pistachio and amareno cherries with a cherry champagne foam they whip up just before serving it on the side next to the whole dessert. It's light and unique. It is not too sweet and hinted at a Persian influence for me.
Service was top notch and it is they may visit your table in pairs as the restaurant goes through its teething stage. They are receiving feedback and learning from their experience as much as the patrons. The manager on duty will also visit your table. So they are paying close attention at this stage.
The check came and it is what I expected at this level. This came to around $300 for two people, including tip, which places it squarely in the steakhouse and sushi range and the more substantial steak and Branzino pairing allowed us not to feel famished afterwards. One of the problems with sushi is one can spend a lot of money and still want a cheeseburger afterwards. We were good afterwards.
4.3 fresh stars!