Daniel B.
Yelp
"Disgusting!"
This was the one word I heard over and over again from a Providence resident, in regards to ONYS. "You'll smell like onions for the rest of the day" was another warning, but one which holds little water for me. I love smelling like the foods I love, and onions are a personal favorite. Seriously, can you imagine life without onions? But I digress.
I am here to say, avoid the haters. I regret every single missed opportunity to visit ONYS over the last sixteen years of my fairly regular travels to Rhode Island.
For the record, this is coming from a New Yorker and a Michigander, who has a fondness for the occasional Chicago dog. That also makes me an equal opportunity hot dog lover, without prejudice for meat blends, casings, toppings or cooking methods. Great dogs can come in all shapes and sizes, and so can not so great ones.
ONYS makes a great dog. For being in a bit of a rougher part of town, this is a tender, delicate version of the form. I can get down with that. No snap. Just a juicy silky blend of pork, beef, and veal. The wiener itself has some delicate spice, which is enhanced by just a bit more heat from the chili. It's not hot, but pleasantly tingly. Lets say piquant, even if that word is entirely out of place with the vibe at the counter. The onions and mustard provide some balancing brightness.
What I was not expecting was the celery salt. My bad for not doing my research before grabbing a stool at the well worn counter. However, in my mind, it is this small detail which sets the Rhode Island style apart from its cousins. Of course, it's the whole package, with the selection of the wiener and the composition of the chili as well. Still, the celery salt was a delightful pop in the kisser and far from out of place in the hot dog universe. However, until now I did not realize it was in use outside of Chicago.
The added salt on top is one reason I was glad to have ordered a coffee milk on the side. The other reason is that to date this was the best coffee milk I've had in the state. Rich, creamy, cold, and full flavored. I know it just comes from a bag. Perhaps coffee milk simply tastes better after something salty.
The coffee milk came in a pint glass, and when I cashed out my bill said it was a large one. That tracks. Perhaps ONYS offers a small one? If so, that would be my go to for next time. As tasty as it was, that's a lot of fluid dairy.
In the end, the wiener was $3.69 the large coffee milk was $7.18. With tax and a 17% tip for counter service, I was in and out for $9. Food has gotten more expensive these days for sure, but you shouldn't be eating that many hot dogs anyway. One was plenty satiating especially with all of that milk.
I'll be back and will continue to fight the good fight against any naysayers. I'm also very curious to try the grilled cheese. Next time ONYS. Next time.