Bohan W.
Yelp
Omakase Takeya is tucked away in the basement of a very average ramen bar, with not much but a piece of paper taped to the wall signifying it's existence.
I had always found myself frustrated with Japanese food in this city to the point where up until Kyoten, I had given up all hope of decent sushi in Chicago. Takeya comes in at a much more affordable price point and nicely fulfills a niche that Omakase Yume failed to do.
I did have some concerns regarding their size. Connected to Ramen Takeya, if you arrived early there was little choice but to sit at their bar or uncomfortable little chairs where you'd typically wait to pick up a to go order.
There was a singular mis-step. One of the dishes, which was a species of flounder I wasn't familiar with, was initially described as Tai/Red Snapper, before the chef jumped in the correct wording that I unfortunately don't recall.
On the other hand, it was one of my favourite dishes of the night. A "cold smoked" sashimi featuring a Breville Smoking Gun (which has been one of my favourite toys since having an amazing "smoked" yuba at EN Brasserie.) EN certainly did it with more aplomb and effect, though perhaps it is unfair comparing yuba and soy milk to something more understated like fish. Nonetheless, the wood chip fed device worked to great effect here, infusing the fish with a great smoky flavour in less than a minute.
As for the sushi itself, it was an experience surpassing most of the higher end sushi bars I've had in Taipei, and for the first time I had sushi I found befitting the price in the Midwest. No haphazard knife skills, misaligned and pointless garnishes, fake wasabi, or poor quality fish here, as some other local "high end" spots are prone to do. Tucked away in a quiet basement, you can forget you're in Chicago and get the experience you would expect from a quality, limited seating Bangkok or LA sushi bar, made complete with an English speaking bilingual host.
The seating was arranged thoughtfully, with itamae Sasaki preparing almost all the dishes in full view from any seat at the sushi bar, with exception of the negitoro for a hand roll he held final review over. Despite some mutual language barriers, both he and the host were friendly and approachable, happy to answer any questions or make conversation.
A generously torched kinmedai aburi was the highlight of the night for me, but only because of my love for kinmedai in general. Nothing failed to hit the mark.
The tamago was unique and plush, infused with tiger shrimp and yam for an amazing texture. The akami with foie and truffle had a surprising sweetness, and left me very appreciative even as someone who typically isn't a big fan of the way black truffle is used at most restaurants.
The uni and ikura were fantastic, and even as I typically prefer to stay far away from the high BMS of A5 wagyu when enjoying shabu shabu, found myself enjoying the way it was paired with a spicy radish for a wonderful bite.
If there was any criticism I had to give, it would be that yuzu peel came up three times over the course of the meal. A great component in its own right and none of it done improperly, but for it to come up as much as it did as a quite strongly flavoured and textured ingredient was a little jarring.
Still, that is nitpicky as I can be about something that may have even been intentional.
Omakase Takeya is exactly the type of sushiya that Chicago needs more of. As of now, I think it stands head and shoulders above its peers in its price range, and paired with the pricier Kyoten has me very hopeful in the future development of sushi in this city.
I'd like to give the entire team at Omakase Takeya my thanks for a wonderful meal at a very fair Chicago price point.