Peter D.
Yelp
I have drank more than any human being ever really should at Ice House and Bait & Tackle (RIP) across the street, and somehow I've just never walked into Grindhaus. I'm an idiot.
While no one is surprised by my idiocy, I am still simultaneously disappointed with myself for waiting to try Grindhaus for so long, and absolutely struck dumb by the deliciousness and creativity and fun coming out of this tiny little kitchen in Red Hook.
The Koji Tomato. Brilliant. After her first few bites, my wife said, "This requires drugs."
As anyone would, I assumed she meant being married to me...but she was referring to the imagination required to conceive of this beautiful, and fascinating plate. Using the fermented rice/mold (that is one of Japan's finest exports) to intensify a grilled tomato is bold and unique enough, but savory lemon curd? Leek hay?! This is out of control. I'm down with the whimsy of serving it with (and purchasing and using) a metal spork.
Obviously, I love this dish, and I was excited enough about it to be making notes on my phone for later reference. I apologized for being rude to my wife (par for the course), and she said, "I don't care. While you're on your phone, I'm eating it all."
As delighted as I was with the tomato, I must admit that the impossibly rich flavors and perfect cookery on the Duck Dish pissed me off. I'm furious that I haven't been shoveling these luscious, fall-apart legs into my mouth on a regular basis. When combined with little pops of sweetness from the gooseberries, the intensely savory skin, lightly drizzled with hot honey...it may be the best thing I've eaten in months.
We've also shared the Elote Fried Rice, a Mexican/Asian mashup that is just as colorful and texturally interesting as the tomato. As much as I loved the smoked corn and the roasted tomatillo salsa, it's almost too large a portion to share with just two people. So we came back again a week later with six people. (If you're reading this guys, I didn't bring you out because I like your company. It was so I could try more stuff.)
Like the whole roasted dorade (as good as a fish can be), the pork saltado (a sauce worthy of drinking), and the super fancy poutine they just dropped (rich and perfect for sharing). Unbeknownst to the rest of my friends, I also ordered us a burger for dessert, and I regret nothing. It's amazing.
Shout out to the chef Kevin Speltz for producing this astonishing menu all on his own, and to my man Walter for bringing us all the wine (I recommend the vinho verde they have) and making excellent recommendations.
Oh, and the space is dark and weird and adorable and perfect (and has a lovely backyard), all at the same time. Except my wife would like a hook in the bathroom. That right there is literally the only thing we didn't like about Grindhaus, and only my wife cares about that which means it doesn't matter.
If you couldn't tell, this is my new favorite restaurant, and it will be yours too. As one of the signs inside reads, "everyone deserves a piece of the action."