Ritodhi C.
Yelp
Arguably Houston's most exciting young chef and one its most recognized ambassadors nationally, Justin Yu made waves in 2017 when he suddenly closed his acclaimed project Oxheart, which earned him a James Beard award for Best Chef: Southwest. Theodore Rex, named after Yu's nephew, is the spiritual successor of Oxheart, though more relaxed, intimate, and whimsical. The tiny restaurant is situated in the warehouse district in an unassuming, old-fashioned building with a small side patio featuring a handful of tables. I've only sat inside once, but it feels homey and retro with an open kitchen and dim lighting.
The service is casual but strong, and the food is about as close to Michelin-level as you'll find in town, which is to say that the dishes are labor-intensive and thoughtfully crafted with often rare or non-traditional ingredients and techniques. It feels like the kitchen is following its creative instincts and sharing the byproducts with us rather than catering to the public's whims, which I respect. The menu is revamped every so often, but here's what we had on my most recent visit:
Tomato Toast - one of their signatures and a must-order item that feels like something you'd nosh on in the French or Italian countryside. The tomato fondant is buttery, tangy, complex, and herbaceous, spooned over toasted rye pain de mie. So heavenly that you will seriously consider ordering a second.
Mung Bean Crepe - not much to look at, but the filling of salty alpine cheese and earthy, nutty mung bean packs a punch. This one was more controversial among our group, but I was a fan.
Boiled Beef Dumplings - UFO-shaped dough packages stuffed with grass-fed beef, ricotta, and celery and swimming in a buttery broth. These were juicy, rich, and hearty.
Cresc'tajat - a beautiful hand-folded pasta originating from Pesaro province of Le Marche in Eastern Italy, typically made from leftover polenta. The diamond-shaped bites are chewy and flavorful, soaking in a tangy dill-infused mushroom broth. In general, Theodore Rex doesn't shy away from tart and earthy notes, which aren't as well represented in Western food.
Tagliolini - long and wide ribbons of pasta caressed with a sauce of butter, shallots, and oyster liquor. Just a deliciously round but sharp flavor profile that is reminiscent of a warm ocean dip.
Roast Chicken Leg in French Curry -I 'm not a big fan of ordering chicken at restaurants, but here is an exception. Tender underneath a respectable crust, the meat had a deeply rustic flavor that lingers.
Gulf Snapper - on the pricier side at $36, but the white fish was poached to perfection and the underlying Soupe Au Pistou, a vegetable soup hailing from Southern France, was a refreshing change of pace from an otherwise intense and decadent meal.
Smoked Greens - braised hearty greens with strong BBQ vibes that marry sweet, smoky, and bitter elements. For when you want to get your veggies in but in the meatiest way possible.
Warm Blueberry Buttercake - an eye-openingly flavorful dessert that balances tart, sweet, and buttery dimensions, pairing the warmth of each bite with cold cream.
Dark Chocolate Mousse - this one was a hit with my friends, but I couldn't fully detect the mushroom in it, though the maple and lemon certainly came through.
T. Rex also has an extensive and carefully sourced wine selection, along with a small selection of beer, cider, and non-alcoholic beverages. The exquisite dishes here are elegant in their simplicity yet deceptively complex, which makes every meal an adventure. I'm glad Houston has a restaurant like this.