Parador Caleño Review - Sunnyside - New York - The Infatuation
"If you arrive at Parador Caleño with a group, don’t sweat it. The owner of this excellent family-run Colombian restaurant in Sunnyside will be more than happy to push a couple of smaller tables together to accommodate you. “You’re at home,” he might say, waving away your attempts to thank him. You’ll soon notice that almost everyone in the restaurant is greeted with warm familiarity, and addressed as “princess” or “reina.” By the time the owner personally distributes a farewell Blow Pop to each member of your party, you’ll aspire to become a regular, too.
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
At Parador Caleño, you can play I Spy with a red-white-and-blue “Let Freedom Ring” banner, a Valentine’s Day teddy bear, a half-deflated Father’s Day helium balloon, and a Christmas elf figurine—all at the same time. If the decor is seasonally incoherent, it’s probably because Parador Caleño is busy paying close attention to the comforting, homey food. The empanadas are a must-order, but they’re only the beginning. From the moment your bandeja tipica arrives, topped with a beautifully jammy egg yolk, you’ll know you’re in for a treat.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kate Previte
Empanada De Carne
Amazing. The filling is like a rich beef stew, and the corn wrapper is a great hybrid of crunchy and chewy.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Bandeja Tipica
Everything on this platter is just about perfectly cooked, but the carne asada in particular is juicy and flavorful.
Lengua En Salsa
This lovely braised beef tongue is only available on weekends, so rearrange your calendar accordingly. It’s incredible, and even better with a side of crunchy yet moist tostones to dip in thick, fragrant, cumin-laced creole sauce.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Pargo Rojo Frito
The fried red snapper is beautifully seasoned and beautifully cooked. There’s a crunch to the caramelized skin, but the flesh inside is moist and flaky.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Costillas Al BBQ
This wouldn’t be our tippy-top choice for an entree here, but it’s nevertheless a great one: The pork ribs are juicy and tender." - Molly Fitzpatrick