Brad S.
Yelp
I don't know what draws so many Asian eateries to the four corners of 37th and Woodlawn. They don't really share much in common with one another, aside from them all not being very good. I mean, there's nothing wrong with cheap Chinese (Great Wall) or REALLY cheap Chinese (China Go) or ??? (Tsunami), but it's not something anyone brags about. They're not destination restaurants; they're ones of convenience. At least those three have been able to find their audience - there's a fourth typically-Asian establishment that has struggled to find its place, beginning as a cheap hibachi, followed by a short lived jack-of-all-trades, and most recently occupied by Pho Cuong, which is notable if only because it's completely in line with many of the other pho restaurants in town, if only in a completely different neighborhood.
As someone who has pho'd his way around this city, I'll admit the difference in broths from one place to the next is small, and while none seem to ever come close to achieving the deep, complex, and unctuous stock that defines the traditional pho broth of which I've read about in books, the better ones at least have a little bit of fat, a little bit of aromatics, and enough fixin's on the table (fixin's, of course, being the traditional Vietnam phrasing) for me to make my soup to my standards. Which is to say, Pho Cuong's broth is up there with the better restaurants in the city, if only because it didn't do anything weird with it.
This ordinariness carried into both the meats of my dac biet - rare brisket, thick slices of large meatballs, tripe, and tendon - as well as the standard plate of accouterments... almost. Among the cilantro, thai basil, peppers, and bean sprouts was something I had not come across in town here - a long serrated leaf, apparently commonly found on pho plates, and and in no way related to corriander - eryngium foetidum, also known as culantro. It's firm texture and stronger, soapier (I thought it was more akin to anise on first taste) flavor is used in addition to its cilantro brother from another mother. Use it or don't, but it's the first time I've noticed it around here - not bad for a pho restaurant on 37th.
Ultimately, it's the location of Pho Cuong that best defines it - a pretty good Vietnamese restaurant in a city that is not bereft of them in a neighborhood that is otherwise lacking good local restaurants. Personally, I'm just happy I no longer have to drive twenty minutes for decent pho.