Bayphile C.
Yelp
Portal to Portugal
In the Bay Area, you can easily eat your way around the world. Here's a sampling of three Portuguese bakeries in Silicon Valley.
- Padaria Acoreana Bakery - sweet bread (massa sovada), cornbread (broa/pao de milho), crusty rolls (papo-secos), biscuits (biscoitos), custard tarts (pasteis de nata)
- Padaria Popular Bakery - cupcakes (pasteis/queijadas de Sintra), custard tarts, bread pudding (pudim de pao), pudim flan, sponge cake (pao-de-lo), sweet bread, crusty rolls
- Portuguese Bakery - sugar donuts (malasadas/filhoses), rice pudding (arroz doce), sweet bread, crusty rolls, biscuits, cupcakes
Acoreana and Popular are located in San Jose's Little Portugal just east of the intersection of U.S. 101 and Alum Rock Avenue. Yes, Little Portugal could use a makeover; the city can start by redoing the banners (don't blink or you'll miss this small neighborhood). Most Portuguese Americans in the Bay Area trace their roots to the Azores, a group of islands off the coast of Portugal.
Acoreana's Azorean-style cornbread, made with white cornmeal, is not sweet like American cornbread. It should go well with canned sardines, of which Acoreana stocks several varieties. You can also use this country bread for rustic recipes like panzanella (Italian bread salad) and muffuletta (New Orleans sandwich). This bakery's crusty rolls come in two shapes and are big enough for Portuguese sandwiches such as bifanas de porco.
Popular makes six flavors of "cupcakes": custard, orange, almond, bean, coconut, and honey raisin (also named after Queen Amelia). These bite-sized cakes/tarts don't need frosting to complete them. The queijada with the namesake cheese filling may be available on special occasions. It's hard to find the traditional sheep's milk cheese for this recipe, so the bakery probably uses mozzarella instead. Popular's bread pudding resembles a bundt cake and rivals any good American bread pudding. And you must try its custard tarts.
Portuguese Bakery (portuguesebakery.com), located in Santa Clara, makes "donuts" that you won't find at Krispy Kreme Doughnuts. Its queijadas have lemon, coconut, or almond filling. Sweet bread is a sweet round loaf that Hawaiians are quite familiar with. Acoreana's version is denser than Portuguese Bakery's and has a complementary sour taste to it (some people may prefer the airy type). So if you're looking for Portuguese cakes and tarts, make Popular your first stop. Acoreana is the place for breads and rolls. And get your donuts and rice pudding from Portuguese Bakery (skip the bags of "day-old" donuts as they are sometimes moldy).
Final tally: For its quality and rarity, Popular Bakery earns three stars (for Good). Where else can we get a nata fix without having to drive to Hayward (Hiser Bakery) or Rohnert Park (9 Islands Bakery Cafe)?
Feed me: So who makes the best custard tarts in the Bay Area (see below for details)? If you have an opinion on any of the four varieties (English/Portuguese/Chinese/Macanese), write to bayblog at the domain lycos[dot]com. Make sure to put the word "Yelp" in your e-mail subject. As far as the Chinese egg tart is concerned, San Francisco's Golden Gate Bakery is the best (though the crust is a tad greasy).
Attention, foodies: While you're in Little Portugal, you should check out Sousa's, the oldest (and only?) Portuguese restaurant in the South Bay, and Rosa's Trade Rite Market, whose deli serves breakfast and lunch. There are also annual Portuguese festivals in San Jose (diadeportugalca.org) and other cities in California (idesofca.org). And if you find yourself in Big Portugal, you should head straight for Lisbon's Antiga Confeitaria de Belem (pasteisdebelem.pt), the most famous place for pastel de nata, and Sapa in Sintra, a pastry shop that supposedly makes the best queijada.
Recipes: Pastel de nata; queijada; massa sovada; broa; pao de milho; papo-seco; malasada; arroz doce; pudim de pao; pao-de-lo; biscoito; English custard tart; Hong Kong egg tart; Macanese egg tart (see below).
--------------------
More to chew over...go to bayphile.yelp.com and read my other Bay Area reviews. And go to bayphile.blogspot.com for recipe links, surveys, and part 2 of this review, including:
About Madeira Islands and the Azores
About Portuguese bakeries
Memo to Portuguese bakeries
About custard tarts
--------------------