Building · Kilburn
"Kaipiras is the closest thing in London to a proper boteco: wear a thong bikini and turn up the heating and diners might even think it’s Rio. The menu is extensive and basically covers all the classic dishes of Brazil’s southeast, plus six varieties of moqueca, which are stellar. A few appetisers — try the crispy fried fish or acarajé, which makes a rare London appearance — with a beer or caipirinha sometimes does the job here, but the mains, from parmigiana and a decadent feijoada to steak and onions, are pretty much all knockout too." - Tomé Morrissy-Swan
"There are many reasons for the small plate explosion, but deep down people know the starter/main course/dessert paradigm is clapped and what everyone secretly wants from a menu is a succession of snacks. Enter Kaipiras by Barraco, a Brazilian boteco bar tucked away on a back street in Kilburn. All the best things are in the starter section: mandioca frita, fat chips of cassava that make a mockery of every fried potato pretender; torresmo, undersold on the menu as pork scratchings but in reality crisped hunks of fried pork belly, fat fluffed up and creamy; and calabreza acebolada, Brazilian sausages and onions that arrive shaking and sizzling in the pan. This is perfect drinking food, to be guzzled down with the three C’s: ice cold Chopp, caipirinhas, or straight cachaça." - Jonathan Nunn