Edgar V.
Yelp
I love a man who can work his tongue. Oh, wait. I mean, a man who can handle two different languages easily is a sexy beast. Come here and your probability of finding such a man will be pretty darn high along with some tasty pupusas.
Forget the Colbert Bump: I'm bumping up my own rating from 3.5 stars to 4 stars for this humble "Little Buffet That Could". Set in a fresh new strip center just south of Bissonnet and Hillcroft, I was lured to explore it by a totally random Yelp review (Ashley W's, if you're curious). Seeing John D's review only added fuel to this fire.
The interior isn't the largest but the tables are clean and newish with a bright landscape mural of towns in El Salvador on each end wall. You pay your money up front ($5.40 including tax for the buffet only) and then pick up a styrofoam plate at the steam table. Choose among the 6 types and the steam table lady will unwrap the foil and put your chosen type and quantity on your plate. Move down and ladle up some picante salsa and/or some curtido (the zingy cabbage salad: think coleslaw). Grab and seat and enjoy while watching some Spanish telenovelas on the big screen TVs.
I sampled one of each of 4 types: pupusa revuelta (pork, beans, and cheese), the loroco con queso, the ayote with cheese, and the plain beans and cheese. Some definitional terms from my transplanted El Salvadoran co-worker: Loroco is a flower that grows on a vine and used in various dishes. It has a pronounced flavor when fresh so is mixed with other ingredients to dilute its strength. Ayote is a baby pumpkin-squash vegetable and is considered a delicacy. [Okay, lesson over.]
The loroco and ayote versions were tasty but not "out there funky". To be frank, the loroco was kind of bland. The ayote was different since you could see the spinach-like vegetable in the pupusa. I'd say you could serve your country-bumpkin Aunt Winifred these items and she would be okay with these "exotic" items if she can handle corn, cheese, and beans.
The other pupusas were similarly mainstream but the reason for the star upgrade were the lovely charring those maize rounds took after their visit to the griddle, the tangy salsa, and the sour crunch of the curtido. The combination made for some nice eating.
Of course, as the only Asian man in the place, both the cashier and the steam table lady gave me the eye to see if I really was eating these pupusas as well as whether or not I was enjoying them. After catching them eyeballing me, I kept on eating and gave them each a big grin.
Or, the grin could have been due to a neighboring table of three young men who effortlessly flowed between flawless English and Spanish. Super sexy at how they shimmied between the two languages. I wanted to lean over and say "I like your pupusas" but worried that it would come off sounding dirty. Would it sound less dirty in Spanish? I thought not.