Philip Gissen
Google
I enjoyed Radici, and applaud the kitchen’s innovation and creativity. Unfortunately, not everything tasted good. That is the point, no? Alinea in Chicago, which was one of the most heralded restaurants in the world, also one of the most expensive, sometimes forgot food is supposed to taste good.
Hushed and elegant, I was compelled to keep my voice down at Radici. That’s hard after several vodkas. Service matches the elegant decor, formal but pleasant, whisking plates away in almost a choreographed manner. We ordered the 7 course, 75 Euro, ILMARE E LA LAGUNA menu. Radici offers several set menus including a blind degustation along with an a la carte menu. There are so many combinations on offer, it became dizzying figuring it all out. It was just easier to settle on one without deciphering the menu puzzle.
There were several aspects of Radici that stood out: Bread was taken seriously and the origin and ingredients of the two types of bread explained and described. Bravo! and Brava! More restaurants should do this. I enjoyed the lightness of the cold Spaghettino with sour cream, caviar and oysters. It was unique. The highlight dish was the Sogliola, farro, spinacino e foie gras, a deconstructed thing with foie gras foam. It was creative AND delicous.
The other dishes were either unmemorable, tasteless, or tasted bad.
Our final bill was a bit over 200 Euros with 3 cocktails and two glasses of wine. High considering our dinner at the one Michelin star Iacobucci, an hour away, was less. If I lived in Padova I would visit Radici every few months, just to check in to see what the kitchen is up to. As a tourist, I would not make Radici a destination restaurant.