John C.
Yelp
There are several aspects to restaurants that make them worthy of my time and money. These include the quality of the food of course, but also its uniqueness, the vibe of the space, the staff's personality and, most important to me, the passion of the chef. All of these qualities are hitting their stride at Reikina, guided by the singular passion of chef and owner Thomas Stacy.
Reikina opened two months ago in City Centre on Houston's west side. It offers an eight course tasting menu. The space is small and at first glance austere. The atmosphere starts to warm as you relax in the forward lounge with creative cocktails (including mocktails) while waiting to be invited to your table. Unique works by local artists are on display, and for sale, and will change every two months or so along with the menu. Vinyl records from the chef's personal collection provide the restaurant's soundtrack, and wait....is that a piano in the corner? More on that later.
My wife and I visited on the last Saturday night of chef Tom's first menu. We loved the entire experience and the food was wonderful. Some items were familiar and others unique. All were executed with exacting precision and presented beautifully. Perhaps the highest compliment I can offer is this...I cannot wait to go back.
My wife and I settled into our table and waited for service to begin. Chef Tom addressed the room with background on his gastronomic journey and what Reikna, the word and the restaurant, mean to him. I love it when a chef reveals himself. After all, the food I enjoy the most has its own personality. I like to know where that's coming from. The experience is starting to feel like I'm in chef Tom's living room.
As Tom wrapped up his opening remarks he asked everyone to take a moment of meditative gratitude. We all closed our eyes, took a few deep breaths and the chef asked us to think of things for which we are grateful. I thought this was a beautiful way to start dinner. Perhaps others felt uncomfortable or challenged by this moment of contemplation. If I had to guess what chef Tom thinks of someone being uncomfortable, I would say he's probably okay with that. I think he wants to challenge your expectations.
An example of the deliciously thoughtful meal includes the New England oyster on the halfshell served with a sake mignonette emulsion and cilantro oil. Chef Tom explains each item as they are presented to you. For this dish he exclaimed, "I don't like mignonette", because it doesn't stick to the oyster. And that's why Tom emulsified the mignonette. Problem solved and resulting in deliciousness.
Other dishes were the yellowtail sashimi with a pineapple vierge served with miniature cubes of melon; chicken liver mousse with lychee reduction and radish kimchi; stuffed squid 'ceaser' with parmesan rice 'chicharron' and Old Bay togarashi. His crab cake was a true highlight, and as Tom introduced it, "this is not your father's crab cake." It was a small ball of delicate crab, gently fried and intended to be eaten as a lettuce wrap along with its accompanying miso orange emulsion and housemade pickles.
The charsiu pork and cherry bao were another standout dish. The pork belly was sublimely tender yet crispy and richly glazed. The bao was stuffed with tart cherries that cut the fattiness of the pork. It was a delightful balance of flavors and textures.
Now, back to that piano in the corner. While the dessert was served, chef Tom took a seat and serenaded us with a song. So yea, not only can the guy compose a beautifully inspired and delicious meal (and design a restaurant) but he can play the freaking piano and sing. Tom really has poured his heart and soul into Reikina.
The meal concluded, or so we thought, with a matcha white chocolate mousse and nectarine sorbet. The delicately acidic citrus was a lovely counterpoint to the richness of the mousse. We thought we were done. We had just consumed 8 unique and delicious courses. However, Tom being the consummate host and wanting to assure no one goes home hungry, offered a wagyu cheese burger on a brioche bun with deeply caramelized onions. OMG it was good.
Reikina is a great experience and I encourage you to go. Like I said....I cannot wait to go back.