Holy-foo' X.
Yelp
Like Ray Liotta said in "GoodFellas", this was "some real grease-ball sh*t."
So I was taking a much-needed siesta from many hours hard at it over @ Ground Kontrol, and was seriously jonesing for some salt'n'peppa Squid. This would have been my go-to "litmus test" dish for Asian eateries all these years, but few places indeed even offer S/P squid. So I instead use Shrimp-Fried Rice as my gold standard, and get down on the S/P squid where I can.
Imagine my dismay, it being not quite midnight, that right there in Chinatown, to learn that there was only one place open so late---The Republic. What's more, they didn't do Salt-n-Pepper squid, though they do offer S/P shrimp. Fine fine fine, I told the lady on the phone, make up a large order of that, and a side of shrimp-fried rice, and I'll be there in a few minutes.
They had the goodies all neatly bagged up and stapled (!) when I got there shortly thereafter. A word about the building and the ambiance..... this place has some eerie similarities to the Old Wishing Well in No Po--think innumerable cozy red leather booths---especially before the forward thinking but anachronistic and highly regrettable ghetto fabulous interior remodel to enlarge the dancing space, etc over at the Well. Fortunately, the big Vegas-like neon signs outside both buildings still remain (thank GOD) and are undeniably of a very similar style and era. Thank goodness the folks at the Republic had the good/poor taste and supreme cheapness to avoid the El Cheapo deluxe remodel!
Back to the food. The S/P squid was delicious. Very greasy, but once I caught a sniff of the afore-mentioned Wishing-Well vibe, I knew exactly what to expect. There were also a good amount of very salt-and-peppery onions and green peppers in the mix. Score! The shrimp fried rice, however, *cue horrendous car braking and crashing sound effects* good lordigans, wtf happened??? Not only was the rice drenched in grease, but the shrimp---those beautiful, succulent, jumbo shrimp defining the S/P shrimp basket were nowhere to be found in this rice. Instead, there were tiny pink blobs dotted sporadically throughout the rice--- maybe they were shrimp phoetuses? Shrimp zygotes, perchance? Yeah, probably not a good thing to take one look at your food and suddenly feel compelled to try to recall all the phases of cellular mitosis...
The greeter lady waiting for me and my debit card was efficient and no-nonsense in her duties. What she lacked in overt friendliness she more than made up for in a stunning hip-to-waist ratio that would make Beyonce weep w/envy. Not something you see everyday in Asian women, fo sho'! Anyways, this little feast set me back more than 25 smackeroos, which seemed a little steep, to be honest. A couple take out boxes of "take your pick" @ The Wishing Well would have been at least ten dollars less.
So. While The Republic scores big retro-fab style points, and makes a good enough Shrimp salt'n'pepper that I would go back for again, the prices and the mucho malo shrimp-fried-rice leaves this rating w/a couple inescapable bullet wounds. S'alright though--- old time joints like the Republic and the Wishing Well wear such wounds w/pride. Just like it was w/Tupac: the bullet wounds only makes their legend, and their 'cool' grow.....