Ryan M.
Yelp
If you've followed my "snooty social pariah about town" gastronomic adventures, then you know I hold French cuisine to a high standard. Too many places aim high but either fail to execute the standards (duck confit, escargot) or embarrass themselves with hipster "reinterpretations" of those very standards. When I perused Restaurant Claudine's sparse online menu, I wasn't sure what to expect. I saw a roster of decidedly French dishes interspersed with several decidedly non-French dishes -- a potential disaster of confused intentions -- yet I trusted the pedigree of Executive Chef Roland Gutierrez (formerly of Supper at The Hotel Emma) and Chef de Cuisine Cassie Ramsey (formerly of the phenomenal, ultra-exclusive Mixtli). With that kind of culinary gravitas at the helm, how could any restaurant falter?
I am pleased to report that Claudine is indeed an outstanding restaurant, not only for Francophiles but also for fans of what I would call "upscale Southern." The menu pays homage to the French classics (the aforementioned duck confit and escargot) but also draws inspiration from Cajun/Creole (gumbo, blackened shrimp salad) and even the deep south (fried chicken, cornbread, chicken-fried steak). Having tried a record thirteen dishes over the course of three visits, I am prepared to place Restaurant Claudine among the top-ten eateries in all of San Antonio. For ease of reference, I have highlighted and rated (on a scale of 0 to 5) several of the most notable dishes among the eleven I've tried. Enjoy, dear reader!
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Cornbread (5.0): The frugal minded would scoff at paying $11 for cornbread, but this is not your ordinary cornbread. Unlike most iterations -- which veer towards crumbly, dry, and overly sweet -- the five thick slices on my plate bore the texture of a buttery, dense pound cake with hints of cornmeal. The accompanying compound butter was made from scratch and smoked in house, imbuing it with a subtle mesquite flavor that called to mind good southern barbecue.
Blackened Shrimp Salad (5.0): Shrimp is a difficult protein, as finding the sweet spot between undercooked and overcooked can be tricky. The three meaty Gulf Coast shrimps on this salad were cooked perfectly. The blackening seasoning was intensely flavorful but not overpowering. Even the homemade ranch hit all the right notes: the perfect alchemy of texture (just thick enough to coat the greens), creaminess, and herbaceousness.
Escargot Champignon (5.0): I must admit I was perplexed by the open-faced baguette interpretation, but one bite convinced me that this bold bastardization of the French staple was a triumph in ever regard. The escargots were cooked perfectly (not overcooked/rubbery), the oyster mushrooms made the dish look and feel more substantial, and the brie contributed a bit of funk (think "Andy" by Les Rita Mitsouko) to the traditional "chanson" of a classic escargot dish. Yes, I just referenced Les Rita Mitsouko in a Yelp review. This is one reason among many why you adore and adulate me.
Duck Confit (5.0): Far too often, this dish succumbs to one of two pitfalls: a rubbery, unrendered fat cap or dried-out duck floss beneath the desiccated shell. Chef Cassie, however, clearly knows how to execute this dish, as the skin was shatteringly crisp and the meat beneath was moist and delicate. The butternut squash puree added a subtle sweetness, while the glazed rainbow carrots contributed texture and earthiness. It was also a very pretty dish, as evidenced by my equally stunning photography. It is the current featured photo (as of May 5, 2023) for good reason.
Chicken-Fried Steak (5.0): This is Texas, so we all know what constitutes a great chicken-fried steak: good-quality meat pounded thin, a crispy, craggily shell, and a cream gravy redolent with rendered fat from the fry pan. Claudine's CFS hit all these cues but added a touch of creamy Dijon to the gravy, giving it a pleasant twang. The blistered green beans were seasoned perfectly, and the potatoes mousseline (don't dare call them "mashed potatoes," toi voyou!) were creamy and dreamy. I was so impressed with this dish that I send my compliments to the kitchen. Alas, it is no longer on the menu as of this writing.
The critic in me feels awkward awarding Restaurant Claudine a perfect score across every dish, but try as I might (for I am indeed a nitpicky bastard), I cannot find a single fault with any of dishes. To say I am duly impressed with the cuisine would be an understatement. My only gripe is the quasi-residential location. The repurposed, remodeled 1920s homestead is a gorgeous homage what I remember seeing on road trips through Savannah, Georgia and NOLA, but parking is a big issue, especially on weekends. If my review persuades you to go (and it should), then definitely make a reservation and arrive early, lest you end up parking a mile down the street.