Simon Sayz
Google
Dining at a Michelin starred restaurant is often a dance, a carefully orchestrated ballet of flavors and presentation, and my evening at Restaurant Girardin in La Maison des Têtes was no exception. Chef Eric Girardin’s menu promised a “Journey to the Sensation World,” and while it delivered on that front, this marathon of a meal stretched into an epic 4 hours and 15 minutes, longer than I’d prefer to linger at any table.
We began our culinary odyssey with the Foie Gras. A rich and decadent start, pairing land and sea with a wild peach that added just the right touch of sweetness. It was a bold opener, and with the 2015 Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris, it felt like the evening was off to a promising start.
Next up, Vegetal Painting, an artistic plate that captured the essence of the market, with vibrant colours and flavors that danced on the palate. Fresh, crisp, and a beautiful showcase of local produce, this dish was a testament to Girardin’s eye for detail and balance.
The Trout followed, presented in two stages with a delicate sabayon of herbs. The trout was buttery and perfectly cooked, but by this point, the pacing was starting to feel a bit sluggish. Still, the flavors were undeniable, with each bite feeling more like a carefully composed melody than mere sustenance.
Artichokes came next, in a dish that could only be described as a textural exploration. Sublimated with a Riesling sauce and pearled with mint oil, it was a fresh and inventive course, though perhaps not the most memorable of the evening. It was a dish that might be better appreciated in a more focused setting rather than in the middle of a culinary marathon.
Then came the Beef, a grilled entrecote paired with a rustic millefeuille. The meat was tender, perfectly seasoned, mine was a little too medium, and the millefeuille added a satisfying texture. It was a solid course, if somewhat overshadowed by the sheer length of the meal.
The cheese course offered a choice between Munster “Gonflé”, a dish featuring grapes, a hint of cumin, and Gewürztraminer marc, or a Cheese Platter. I opted for the Munster, which was aromatic and packed with flavour, though by this time, my palate was beginning to tire.
For dessert, we had the option of Plums, sweet cinnamon and Gewürztraminer, or the Kougelhopf, a delicate blend of vanilla and dried grapes. I went with the plums, which provided a sweet, comforting end to the meal. But as a final note, we were also sent off with an elegant block of chocolate and a few more desserts to take away, a thoughtful gesture, albeit one that felt a bit like overkill after such an extended dining experience.
By the end of the evening, the wine, the service, and the food all stood up to Michelin standards, but the duration of the meal took a toll on the overall experience. A 7-course meal should be a journey, not a marathon, and while I appreciated the artistry of each dish, the timing left something to be desired. It’s a restaurant that knows how to impress, but I’d recommend pacing yourself, and perhaps opting for a shorter menu if you want to keep the night from stretching into the early hours.
