Art Block
Google
I celebrated my wife's special birthday here and this restaurant is deserving of a high quality review hence why I am here to share my humble thoughts. James Goodyear, is the Coventry-born executive chef, previously head chef of Michelin-starred Birmingham restaurant Adam's. Classically-trained, James was also in charge of the kitchen at Hide in Piccadilly Circus, London.
The space is really beautiful and surpassed our expectations, in a private area away from the boisterous Lucky Cat. This is a separate space with a self-contained kitchen area looking out onto a spectacular view where the Walkie Talkie looks like a toy building and the Shard is a dwarf in the distance.
The first thing to say about this restaurant is that it is incredibly expensive. We paid over £700 for two people. Although the menu for two comes at £250 per person and a £300 deposit is taken from you, the various add-ons including drinks are expensive. If I would have a criticism it's that some things could be more reasonably priced when you've paid so much money up front. Jay Rayner recently mentioned the measly wine pours of city establishments and I agree that the restaurant could be a bit more generous especially when it's for a special occasion. In the booking email it mentions a welcome drink and canapes. But it doesn't say that will include welcoming yourself to a £24 glass of champagne.
You could say you're partly paying for the view - which is stunning - but even that gets clouded over depending on the weather so I would recommend going on a clear night.
Upon arrival, the operation was very smooth and all the staff who served us were polite, courteous and friendly as you would expect of such an establishment. The two canapes that arrived, comte, iberico ham and sable, onion cream and caviar were passable - the kind of fare you would be served at a corporate event - nothing to write home about. The aged beef, sesame, mooli and white kombu was a bit more interesting to the palate.
My wife liked the oyster, horseradish, apple, dill but I found that the texture was slightly cloying and the ingredients outweighed the taste of oyster which should be more prominent. The langoustine, Mary rose sabyon is a posh description for a very very average bite - I've had much better at the street food market at Canary Wharf for example. The lentil and truffle veloute despite its famed description as harking back to the owner's roots, lacked any kind of seasoning and tasted a bit like the bland oats my wife has for her breakfast!
So why have I given such a high rating you may ask? Well, the dishes that followed the average introductory bites above were truly showstopping. The Isle of Skye Scallop with truffle, hazelnut and citrus was delicious, the scallop beautifully cooked and presented. While the hazelnut distracted somewhat from the overall taste of the dish, it wasn't enough to not enjoy the scallops.
The sage and onion parker house bread was moist, warm and my wife particularly enjoyed the whipped birds liver.
Next up the Native Lobster - another star dish and perhaps the piece de resistance of the menu. Served with pumpkin, pine, nori and exquisite caviar the plate was a sensation for the palate.
The Cornish Turbot was beautifully presented, wonderfully cooked and probably one of the best dishes I have recently tasted. Served with thyme and truffle, all the ingredients were in perfect balance - seafood is definitely a strong point of this menu.
The Sladesdown farm duck was the next course - again superbly cooked and the prune and cocoa adding to an intriguing odyssey of flavours but never overpowering the scrumptious meat.
What followed were three desserts - I had an issue with the Yorkshire Rhubarb - I felt a mouldy after taste emanating perhaps from the rose or olive oil. But apart from that no other complaints. A menu executed to the highest level it was really a privilege to dine here despite the exorbitant cost. Many thanks to all the staff who did an excellent job.
