Michael U.
Yelp
Items Selected:
Pear Nectar
House Aged Ham on a Crispy Pig Skin, Espuma of Mascarpone and Balsamic with Parmesan
Cuttlefish Noodles in Scallop Broth, Beet and Pesto Mille-Feuille, Mackerel Crudo in Spanish Paprika, Tomato Focaccia
Cornbread, Rustic Hearth Wheat, Basque Grass Fed Butter
Veloute de Butternut, Oeuf Poche, Foie Gras
Supreme de Volaille Fermier, Gratin de Macaronis
Lievre a la Royale - Celeri en Croute de Sel
Pomme Rotie au Four, Palet Croustillant de Pop Corn
Crispy and Americano
Said by some to meld the style of Alain Ducasse to a Basque heritage with an ethos similar to Michel Guerard as relates to ingredient sourcing, Vivien Durand was essentially hand selected from his small Michelin Starred kitchen to take the reins at the newly renovated kitchen of Le Chateau du Prince Noir in Lormont, and although shaky service almost saw me walk out as the whole staff fawned over a single six-top in favor of everyone else the cuisine put forth from the kitchen was absolutely exquisite, easily out-performing the modest mid-day cost.
Set alongside a highway, though noise is completely absent within the sunbathed confines of a space overlooking parts of a modern art collection owned by the new inhabitant of the 19th century chateau Le Prince Noir marries formal touches to brilliant whites with splashes of color, the meal unfolding slowly as a la carte options tempt alongside several tasting menus ranging from carte-blanche to a €31 prix-fixe that varies by day.
Establishing expectations after a nearly twenty-five minute wait without so much as water or bread, my server beckoning me back just seconds before I walked out the door, it was not long after sitting down a second time that an order was taken, offers of a complimentary glass of wine refused though no charge appeared on the final bill for a bottle Pear Nectar that was selected.
From this point forth treated like a VIP, the plate presentations thorough and portions generous as sounds from Led Zeppelin and The Cranberries occasionally were emitted from a kitchen where chefs seemed at ease, lunch began with a tableside presentation of ham atop a crisp and creamy cheese mousse bolstered by balsamic with a Parmesan garnish, the canapes continued in a quartet generally reserved for the tasting menu, the earthy beet stack and boldly flavored mackerel in paprika both well appreciated gifts.
Moving onto the lunch prix-fixe proper after a warm pair of breads was presented with one of the most grassy and complex butters ever to grace my tongue, it seemed almost too good to be true that three of my favorite ingredients somehow found themselves incorporated into one single course, and with the butternut potage poured tableside over unctuous liver and a gently poached egg the flavor profile was everything expected and then some, undoubtedly one of the best bites during my three days in France.
Continuing a trend of traditional flavors elegantly presented with a twist, course two offered a breast of hen served over linear handmade macaroni and although indeed 'chicken; this bird was anything but boring, a significant amount of herb brining lending both moisture and flavor while the lightly browned Gruyere and Comte made me wish for a whole bowl of pasta plus more bread to sop up the pan saunce.
Adding on a supplement from the a la carte "signatures du Prince Noir," a slice of Lievre a la Royale topped in traditional sauce fortified by a jugged hare alongside celery baked in salt, those interested in the dish would be well advised to bring a friend - or perhaps a party - to share in the plentiful classic, each bite rich yet well balanced but nonetheless exceedingly heavy all by itself, let alone in addition to the prix-fixe.
Regrettably passing on cheeses, the previous savories all exceedingly rich, it was admittedly a bit abrupt that dessert was presented without any sort of palate cleanser, the tart tatin draped in apples with sorbet and flavors of popcorn as delicious as it was beautiful, a single malty cookie ending the meal along with an Americano before settling the tab and heading to the gardens open to the public where those with a passion for sculpture are bound to be pleased.
