Dolph W.
Yelp
"Fewer and fewer Americans possess objects that have a patina, old furniture, grandparents pots and pans--the used things, warm with generations of human touch, that Rilke celebrated in The Duino Elegies as being essential to a human landscape. Instead, we have our paper phantoms, transistorized landscapes. A featherweight portable museum."
-- Susan Sontag, from a collection of essays entitled On Photography
Yep. We have our laptops, digital pictures and books online--as ephemeral as the binary 1's and 0's which are their essence. "New and improved" are bywords for our consumer society. I, for one, treasure the books, furniture, artwork and mementos I've inherited from my grandparents, many of which had been passed down to them in a similar vein. They connect me to my past and help center me as I choose a path I wish to take into the future. I believe our American culture as a whole has a similar need. To that end, Ima Hogg and her old home, Bayou Bend, are priceless treasures.
Furniture and decorative art won't raise your adrenaline level. If they do, you probably have an unhealthy fetish and urgently need therapy. If you wish to be entertained by technology-infused interactive displays, please don't visit this extension of the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH). On the other hand, if you wish to viscerally experience an environment which reflects the day-to-day needs and tastes of our founding fathers (and mothers), Bayou Bend is a must-see.
If you're visiting, there are two significant hurdles you must first negotiate to enter the beautiful gardens that surround the place:
(1) Finding the street entrance in the first place. It's at the intersection of Memorial Dr. and Wescott St. If you're driving on Memorial, it's easy to wiz through the intersection and miss it completely. If you're teeing into Memorial whilst driving south on Westcott, the entrance sign should be staring you in the face, but people seem to have a penchant for missing it anyway. I've uploaded a picture of the entrance as seen from Google Map's "Street View" to help prevent you from driving by like many.
(2) Crossing the bridge over Buffalo Bayou. It's a narrow pedestrian bridge that shakes and sways with every footfall. There is a sign posted at its entrance that describes in great detail all the conditions that may occur that would prevent you from using the bridge (including the maximum allowable wind velocity). I have a feeling MFAH paid too much for the lawyer that stipulated these conditions. It's a joyfully bouncing experience to walk across and deliberately start the bridge shaking as much as possible (that is, until a dour security guard comes out of the guard house on the other side and shakes her finger at you--oops!). The crossing may result in the adrenaline rush you crave but won't find whilst touring the museum. Others may wish to take a Valium before attempting the crossing.
Once safely on the grounds, you can tour them on your own or walk up to a small building on your right which serves as the reception area for those who wish to take a guided tour of the museum. They are scheduled regularly so you normally don't have to wait long if you didn't call ahead to confirm times and make reservations. As you wait for the guide to appear, you can read all about the oil heiress Ima Hogg's philanthropic and cultural contributions to the city and state. You also can read about how she got her unfortunate name. Note: it is an urban legend that she had a sister named Ura.
And now we've reached the gist of whether you will have a 5-star experience or something less than that. It's all about the volunteer guides. Their labor of love may not transfer well to you unless you get one of the good ones. If you are sufficiently lucky, you will be guided through a furniture-laced (albeit, low key) adventure that spans centuries and encompasses styles we know as Queen Anne, Dutch, Georgian and Chippendale (sorry ladies--don't let your adrenaline spike--this has nothing to do with dancers).
With a little patience and perseverance, you will begin appreciating the lilting s-curves of cabriole legs, claw-and-ball feet, peculiarities of back splats hand-crafted in Newport, Boston, Philadelphia and New York, and all sorts of fanciful finials. "What's a finial?" you may ask. I'm not telling. You will do a lot of walking during the tour, so if you're a bit out of shape, your pulse may actually be elevated before you sit a spell on the upstairs balcony and sip lemonade.
The paintings that complement the furnishings are historic and reflect the same discriminating taste Ms. Hogg used when purchasing the other items in the collection. If you're familiar with the Gilbert Stuart portrait of George Washington, you'll immediately recognize his distinctive style in a portrait that graces one of the walls.
On second thought, I do get an adrenaline rush when I visit Bayou Bend! Do I need therapy?