Steph C.
Yelp
Matt B. and I went to the River Cafe for our anniversary dinner, and if I could do it again, I would pick somewhere else. We still had a good time, but this was in spite of the restaurant.
First of all, it was rather out of the way, and between the unreliable tube and the cab ride from the station, we almost missed our reservation. This is a fairly minor complaint, I suppose. My real gripe about River Cafe was the nonchalant and dismissive service. We informed our waitress that it was our anniversary, and while we weren't expecting freebies, we didn't get so much as a candle in our desserts. Instead, we got rushed service. I understand the value of efficiency, but sometimes you want to sit back and enjoy a meal at leisure. Anniversary meals must be high on that list of sometimes. The River Cafe is an upscale and expensive place, but our food came faster than it did at Pizza Express. We were done with our entrees exactly forty minutes after we sat down. They slowed down the service after that, but in my opinion, the longest foodless interval of a meal should not be the wait for the check. The space was nice, much larger and busier than we expected, so I suppose efficient service was a bit of a feat. Still, there was no reason for it to be terse and impersonal we were paying so much for our meal.
Much would have been forgiven, though, if the food had been amazing. It was passable. Bread was decent and came with good salt, pepper, and olive oil. We ordered a nice bottle of erbaluce for £29 - our waitress's recommendation when I asked for a wine in the £20s.
I was impressed by our starters, which at £15 each cost about as much as our pastas. Matt got the prosciutto di San Daniele, which came with two crostino of chicken liver and sage and squashed tomato and extra virgin olive oil. I got the bresaola con Barba Bietole with red and gold beets and fresh horseradish. Neither involved much preparation on the restaurant's part, but this was fine. They were both delicious. The prosciutto was of excellent quality and I enjoyed the heavy but tasty chicken liver. The bresaola was wonderful, and the combination of beef with sweet beets and lightly pungent horseradish was exactly on point.
I was sorely disappointed by the pasta. I love pasta, and when it's done well, I can hardly think of anything better. I was expecting delicious al dente homemade pasta from River Cafe, but what we got was actually rather flat. I ordered the tagliarini con funghi, fresh fine pasta prepared with English porcini, cream, thyme, and parmesan. The pasta lacked any bite, and the mushrooms were sliced so thin and cooked so much that they didn't have any flavor or texture left. A hefty amount of garlic made the dish edible, but otherwise it was a bland disappointment. Matt's panzotta di zucca was better. This was fresh pasta stuffed with pumpkin and Buffalo ricotta with marjoram butter and pecorino. It was essentially a pumpkin ravioli, and like nearly every other pumpkin ravioli I've come across, it tasted good. It was not, however, anything special.
Dessert was much better. The chocolate nemesis was as sinful as its name suggests. This was a lush, delicious flourless chocolate cake that was soft in texture like a shaped mousse. The chocolate was great, and not too rich. I also enjoyed the panna cotta with grappa and raspberries. I love a good panna cotta, and this one was excellent, flecked with vanilla and boasting a perfect smooth creamy texture.
Our dinner wasn't a disaster by any means, but it was one of our most expensive and least impressive date night meals. There were some good moments, but the pasta was so lackluster and the service so disheartening that I don't think I can recommend the place. On a side note, they did order us a cab, and when we met it outside it was an S class Mercedes. We got stuck with an inflated rate, but I suppose it was a fun experience. Like the River Cafe itself, though, it was probably not worth it.