Stephanie H.
Yelp
Getting into Roji and then finding the place are a bit of a challenge, but an adventure that will reward you richly if you can pull it off.
First, you'll need to set your alarm for early o' clock to snag a reservation when the site opens at 6 a.m. One of the women dining when we were there said she'd made her Tock account in advance to make the reservation process easier, which is a smart move in my opinion. Once you successfully claim a time slot you'll need to input some personal details AND pay in advance, so be ready. (The fee includes the meal and gratuity, so you'll only have to pay at the restaurant for any beverages you add on.)
If you're successful, head downtown and park on or around Court Street before making your way into the alley behind Avril Bleh, Great Clips, etc. and heading for the paper lanterns. The place is tiny with no real waiting area so I would not enter more than a few minutes before your reservation time to ensure your seats are ready to go. The meal lasts one hour and it's staggered by the half-hour (so if there are other diners sitting when you arrive, they started 30 minutes earlier and will be leaving halfway through your meal).
Once you've run the gauntlet of rising early and adventuring to the restaurant, the real fun begins. Pick your poison (beer, sake, wine or soda) if desired, and settle in for an incredible meal. The fish is imported from Japan, so the menu changes regularly with the seasons, and each course is prepared to show off and accentuate the seafood. Pieces and courses are served one at a time, already seasoned to perfection, and you can eat with chopsticks or simply pick them up by hand.
On the night we were there, the courses included some sushi standbys such as lean and fatty tuna, salmon, and roe, but also things I've never tried before or never had served as sushi such as golden eye snapper, squid, scallop and rockfish. With each course, the chef Misaki Kato described the fish and talked about how and why it received the specific treatment that it did. I loved the story behind each piece--particularly the salmon, which he described as "my least favorite fish at the sushi bar" and served garnished with pickled shallots to offset its fattiness.
For me, sushi has two extremes: Ok fish that has been dressed up and combined with other ingredients to make decent rolls (which is what you'll find at most Cincinnati establishments), and really, really amazing fish that has been barely dressed so that the seafood itself is the star (I am thinking of an omakase experience in Seattle and sushi I ate in Japan). Roji is a very compelling in-between. The quality of the fish is great, obviously several notches above any other sushi I've had in the Midwest. And yet the presentation is also interesting. Every sauce, every garnish is carefully considered to accentuate and add to the fish. The result is a quality seafood meal that is also highly engaging, surprising and delightful to eat.
So yes, the sushi is absolutely worth it. But despite the high-end nature of the meal, the ambience of Roji is surprisingly casual and welcoming. Records from their vinyl collection play in the corner as you enjoy every bite. The staff are approachable and readily answer questions and chat with guests. And the intimate nature of the restaurant (only 8 seats!) encourages chatter amongst diners. It is such a journey to get into Roji that every guest we encountered 1) was truly excited to be there and 2) had had the mutual bonding experience of waking up super early to snag a reservation.
A 5/5 experience I look forward to repeating!