Matthew C.
Google
My dining experience at Row on 45 by Jason Atherton was nothing short of extraordinary – the best meal I had on holiday and a masterclass in fine dining. The two Michelin stars are well-deserved, with every element, from the setting to the service, executed to perfection. The design and inspiration behind the menu were crystal clear, with Jason’s experience and global influences shining through in every dish.
The 17-course tasting menu was an immersive journey, starting in the Champagne Lounge, transitioning to the main dining room (where watching the food prepared in the open kitchen added an extra layer of intrigue), and finishing in the library. The intent behind each dish elevated the entire experience, as did the stunning views over Dubai. Adding to the atmosphere was the soundtrack – a brilliant mix of 80s and 90s music that evoked a sense of nostalgia and created an energetic yet relaxed backdrop to the evening.
The service was exceptional, and the non-alcoholic pairings I opted for were thoughtfully curated, complementing the dishes beautifully. While the truffle course was offered as an additional indulgence, with 17 courses, you certainly won’t leave hungry. It’s a splurge, but if you’re in Dubai, I’d absolutely prioritise this restaurant.
Here’s a course-by-course reflection of the meal:
Champagne Lounge – Amuse-Bouche
Oyster and Pearl: A dish with a story, pairing caviar with a delightful ozone flavour. The concept of the oyster and pearl was perfectly executed and set the tone for the meal.
Tuna: Smoky BBQ flavours balanced beautifully, though the delicate tuna belly was somewhat overshadowed. Delicious, though the intent was less clear.
Mushroom on Toast: An ingenious dish with cheese and a subtle hint of marmite. Cleverly balanced and deeply satisfying.
Main Dining Area
4. Uni and Langoustine: A fantastic balance of flavours, with citrus brightening the dish. The uni delivered a light ozone note, and the crunch added a wonderful texture.
5. Salted Egg Prawn: A standout dish with salty and sour notes, though the sourness was slightly pronounced. The deep-fried prawn head was the highlight.
6. Potato with Caviar: Luxury redefined. The potato was used creatively, and the caviar added richness. The pairing with non-alcoholic wine was spot-on.
7. Scallop: Accompanied by XO and butter sauces, this was a perfectly cooked and exceptionally accomplished dish.
8. Brioche with Chicken Fat Butter: Coated in honey and date ginger, this was hot, delicious, and impressively laminated. However, the butter felt unnecessary and might have paired better with simpler bread.
9. Truffle with Maitake Mushroom: A Parmesan foam and a generous amount of truffle delivered a distinct flavour – like walking through a European forest.
Library – Final Courses
10. Sea Bream: Well-cooked but slightly underwhelming. The skin was soggy, and the crispy topping, while tasty, had a texture reminiscent of bone, making it tricky to eat.
11. Venison: A triumph! East meets West with inspired dim sum on the side and impeccable cookery throughout.
12. Cheese: A blue cheese tart, rich and indulgent, paired brilliantly with the non-alcoholic port.
13. Strawberry and Cream: A light, beautiful dessert that allowed the cream to shine.
14. Chocolate: Balanced with tea-flavoured ice cream, this dish was rich yet airy. The non-alcoholic Pedro Ximénez pairing was exceptional.
15. Tea and Cake: Delightful sodden tea-flavoured cakes.
16. Chocolate Tart: Exquisitely balanced and satisfying.
17. Petit Fours: A delightful conclusion to an unforgettable meal.
Prepare to leave with a very full belly, a heart full of gratitude, and memories of not only the incredible food but also the brilliant soundtrack that added a personal touch. A big thank you to everyone whose hard work and commitment were evident and highly valued in such an enjoyable fine dining experience.
