Wataru
Sushi restaurant · Ravenna ·
Edomae-style sushi, Tokyo seafood, intimate sushi bar
Edomae-style sushi, Tokyo seafood, intimate sushi bar
"Since opening in 2015, the Ravenna sushi destination has been known for edomae-style sushi and was considered one of Seattle’s premier Japanese restaurants, with coveted seats at the bar and reservations often booked months in advance; chef-owner Kotaro Kumita, a protege of Shiro Kashiba with ties to the Jiro Ono lineage, even earned a James Beard Award nomination for Best Chef: Northwest. Despite that acclaim, multiple former employees portray Kumita as a talented but volatile taskmaster whose exacting nature produced striking turnover (more than 20 staff in a year and a half at times) and, according to sous chef Masayuki “Masa” Kaneda, a sustained pattern of verbal and physical abuse: Kaneda alleges about 20 incidents beginning in January 2019 that escalated from lighter contact to being smacked, pushed into a sink, kicked repeatedly (resulting in a gash on his forehead and bruised legs), struck with the handle of a kitchen knife, and threatened with a knife, and he claims Kumita forced him to pay fines for mistakes (allegedly $100 per mistake and $1,000 per paycheck, totaling $4,700, later returned after a staff walkout). After Kaneda confided in coworkers, five of eight staff stopped showing up and never returned, Kaneda was fired, and in December 2019 a King County prosecutor filed two counts of third-degree assault and one count of second-degree extortion against Kumita; Kumita denies physically harming Kaneda, says the sous chef is seeking money and that injuries were from a fall, and has cited the pending legal case in declining to comment on some allegations. Former staffers also recount frequent berating, one chair-throwing incident, and an atmosphere that could undermine employees in front of customers; Wataru later reopened for takeout and limited dine-in service, with Kumita saying he is currently the only one working there." - Gabe Guarente
"At Wataru in Ravenna the best way to experience a meal is to sit at the counter and watch chef Kotaro Kumita work, but right now it is open only for limited takeout with chirashi bowls and futomaki." - Gabe Guarente
"Among the more surprising takeout pivots in Seattle since the stay-at-home order, the acclaimed, upscale Ravenna sushi restaurant Wataru is offering 10-piece omakase dinners and chirashi bowls for takeout (and sake bottles to-go) at $40 per person, reservable via Tock — the first time the restaurant has ever done takeout. The minimalistic spot, which opened in late 2015 with an artful Edomae omakase approach that often cures, marinates, or pre-seasons fish, translates that style into takeout with seafood prepared by soy dashi zuke, apple or straw smoke, yuzu sesame marinade, pickled in red vinegar, and seared; the chirashi includes assorted sashimi over sushi rice with shiitake mushrooms and Ariake seaweed. Chef Kotaro Kumita, who trained under Shiro Kashiba, built Wataru into one of Seattle's most sought-after omakase experiences usually booked months in advance, though reservations are now simply a Tock click away, and it remains to be seen how long the service will last." - Gabe Guarente
"For special occasions like my birthday or when I’m wooing out-of-town friends, it’s always Wataru." - Gabe Guarente
"Chef Kotaru Kumita makes stylized and elegant edomae sushi, using a small amount of glossy seasoned rice. Fish is subtly cured, seared, or marinated to enhance its flavor and texture, and he often warms each slice by hand to serve it at the perfect temperature. Each piece is dressed with sea salt, shoyu tare, or a squeeze of sudachi from his garden. This may be the best sushi in Seattle right now—perhaps even in the whole country." - Jessica Voelker
