小花园 Yuan Jersey City
Chinese restaurant · Jersey City ·
Steamed whole fish, soup dumplings, spicy noodles, rich flavors
Steamed whole fish, soup dumplings, spicy noodles, rich flavors
"I stumbled on a mind-bogglingly good bowl at the new Yuan in Jersey City near Newport; their wan za noodles ($14) are lush, with extra aromatics like chopped scallions and cilantro, plus pickled mustard greens, crushed peanuts, and fermented beans. The spice level is almost incendiary." - Robert Sietsema
"I tried what is basically a Sichuan shredded potatoes dish at Yuan, amplified with pickled chiles and grated black truffles ($15), and I’d never experienced potatoes quite like this before. The new Chinese restaurant sits right above the Newport stop on the PATH train and is already mobbed in the evenings — make a reservation." - Eater Staff
At 537 Washington Boulevard, near the North Garage Driveway, I found a sleek new Chinese restaurant with an outdoor courtyard dotted with potted plants and an interior that holds about 80, where lights hang from the high ceiling like crumpled constellations and a dangling chain-link curtain circumnavigates the room; booths clad in dark woods offered the most comfortable seating while tables jumbled in the center. On my first visit a teenage pianist played Beethoven’s sonatas on a grand piano in the middle of the room; on a later visit she and the piano had vanished. The restaurant’s foremost specialty is whole fish—pick sea bass or croaker—that can be done five different ways; the fish weighs about a pound-and-a-half or slightly more and can easily feed three or four. The “whole fish in foil” ($42) was the most astonishing: a raw fish wrapped en papillote, ferried to the table on a brazier, briefly lit and then ceremoniously unwrapped to reveal a steaming fish in a chunky sea of bright red layered with pickled red chiles. More conventional is the province’s braised fish in Sichuan bean sauce, with multiple types of chiles, Sichuan peppercorns used with a restrained hand, and an intense fermented bean sauce; there is also a whole fish in tofu pudding I did not get to. The vast menu (after three visits I’d only tried about a fifth) includes a pig ear appetizer ($12) as soft as a glove, pig kidney carved into flower-like shapes with a mild minerally flavor, beef tendon with peppers ($28) served in great wobbly chunks flavored with dried and mild fresh chiles, eggplant preparations such as eggplant with minced pepper ($10) and a wok-fried yu xiang eggplant with bean paste, chiles, ginger and black vinegar, a mild Dongbei stir-fry of corn and pine nuts ($13) that tastes buttery, shredded potatoes lightly sautéed with black truffle sauce, and a cold gluten salad of spongy beige cubes in a sweet brown dressing decorated with roasted peanuts and lily shoots. Taken together, these dishes point to Yuan as an exciting addition to Jersey City’s burgeoning Chinese restaurant corridor. - Robert Sietsema
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