Felix L.
Yelp
If it weren't for a cheap food article published in the San Diego Reader newspaper, I wouldn't have found out that traditional Iraqi breakfast is served at Sagmani. This restaurant is located in an isolated and unassuming strip mall with "Mediterranean cuisine" and "Best kabobs in town" posters decorating the storefront. Sagmani is an ethnic hole in the wall, the type that's open for breakfast but with no morning menu provided. All of the early bird customers were Middle Eastern.
When I entered the establishment, I asked the server about my options for breakfast. She mentioned something about an "Iraqi omelete". I read that staples of Iraqi breakfast include eggs and bread in a dip, but I wanted something slightly different. I told her that I wanted to eat ful, or fava beans, which is one of my favorite Middle Eastern breakfast dishes. Perhaps she was cautious not to offend a foreigner, so she went into the kitchen to get someone who could help me out. A minute later, I was greeted by Mr. Sagmani himself, the chef and owner. He asked how I typically eat my breakfast and explained how he would cook it. Then off to the kitchen he went.
Chef Sagmani personally brought out my order and beamed with pleasure as he witnessed a foreigner about to eat breakfast cooked the same way as it is at his hometown in Iraq. The dish he presented was called "tishrib baghela bdehan", which consists of a thick slice of fried egg covering a bed of whole fava beans and mixed with torn pieces of Iraqi flatbread. On the side, the condiment plate was just as big as the main course, filled with olives, white onions, lime, and some type of mustard-like relish.
Out of all the Middle Eastern dishes I've eaten before, this breakfast combo was probably the least approachable. Not to say that Sagmani's cooking was horrible, the presentation and freshness of ingredients were to high standards, but the dish just had an acquired taste for a Western palate. It was very tangy and bitter since the beans and thick bread were soaked with strong olive oil. There was hardly any salt added, and the dish composed of many sharp and sour flavors that took a while to get used to. The flavors seemed to be closer to the food from Turkey than Iran, the two neighbors of Iraq.
Although most ingredients in "tishrib baghela bdehan" were familiar, it was the first time they were assembled into this unique combination. Each element tasted fine when eaten individually, but I couldn't imagine how I could stuff down large beans, egg, softened bread, ripe olives, and onions in the same bite. The complimentary black tea that Iraqis drink for breakfast helped wash down the sourness of the olive oil and my bad breathe thanks to the onions. Overall, this Iraqi breakfast was rich on the carbs and protein, so it's the heavy type that you'd want to eat when you need energy later.
On the way out, I noticed that Mr. Sagmani also specializes in grilling kabobs. Beef or chicken kabobs are available for $1.25 a piece, and it includes a small side salad. I wonder if Mr. Sagmani makes much profit from selling this! I also realized that other customers were ordering the lentil soup, which is another Iraqi breakfast favorite. I would try that next time instead, since it's significantly lighter.