The Garlic K.
Yelp
Ferran Adrià, the famous Spanish chef once said, "you need an entire life just to learn about a tomato." I don't know if I can be as philosophical, but I do know if I could eat one pizza, from one restaurant, for the rest of my life, it would be this one.....
Pizza more than almost any other more quotidian food staple (tacos, hamburgers, etc) gives you a taste of a place, an actual taste of the place, because it is fermented. In the same way that salinity in the air imparts the sourdough taste unique to the starter of San Francisco bread as opposed to say, Kansas City, a pizza actually uses the benevolent yeast unique to the air of a place to hue the dough with all kinds of flavors creating almost what can be described as a "taste fingerprint" of sorts. It's irresistibly magic when you bite into this crisp crust and air pockets of oven-air trapped in the bubbles fill your mouth with the uniqueness of this oven, this day, this city of Cincinnati.
The crust is divine: crisp and textured, light to eat but firm enough to hold the perfect structure. The "leoparding" of charcoal and semolina feels like you are running your fingers illicitly across the ridges of brushstrokes of a rare painting you aren't supposed to touch at a museum. The taste of fire! My god! The bright tomatoes which shoot Italian sun-rays through your mind when you gobble them up, mixing them with the sumptuous cheeses of grana padano, pecorino romano, and mozzarella!
Pizzaiolos can spend their whole lives making pizza and not come close to this level of craft and flavor in something so simple and humble as a pizza pie, harkening back to the resonance of that quote by Ferran Adrià. Lucky you that you don't have to wait your whole life to taste it.