JohnnyPrimeC. C.
Yelp
The restaurant has been in business here for decades. Owners Christian and Pamela are a husband and wife duo who take turns managing the place each night. They've been a team here for about 8 years, and for decades prior the restaurant was run by Panela's mother. This year Christian and Pamela are celebrating their 25th anniversary so be ready for some special menus coming this spring/summer season.
The atmosphere is very local and homey. Walls are adorned with old black & white photos of family travels. There's a classic, clean French bistro feel to the place, and the 65-person seating capability is intimate without being stuffy or crowded.
So hows the service? Amazing. Waiters here aren't just people toiling away at their job. These are men with long careers. The newest employee other than the bar staff has been there for 7 years, and veteran waiters have loyalty in the 25-30 year range. The chef has been there for that long, and the staff still manages to keep the menu interesting and new while always retaining the classics that some people have been coming back to eat for years. Impressive, and that speaks volumes about the management and quality of the joint. Christian himself is a stand-up guy. A class act. He's funny, talkative, approachable, kind, warm, inviting, and a great host. Within moments of talking with him you feel as if you've known him all your life.
Located on Lex at 64th, the customers range from shoppers, to business people, to tourists. But their bread and butter are the locals, some of whom come in several times per week for specific dishes that they've been enjoying for generations. One family has been dining here for 4 generations. Even the landlord eats there, who has had the building property in his family since it was a cow grazing pasture in the 1600s. I'm serious.
Okay so on to the good stuff. Here's what we had:
First was a celery root remoulade with red beets. There was a distinctly Mediterranean flavor in this dish, likely because of the cumin spicing. I enjoyed it. It was a cool, refreshing way to open up the taste buds.
Next we had wild striped bass with artichoke hearts, fennel and black olive lemon oil. The fish was perfectly cooked with its crisp skin still intact. This was also very Mediterranean in its flavor profile. Light and fresh. And I must say that the artichoke was one of the best preparations I've ever had outside of mom's home cooking.
Steak was next. An aged sirloin to be exact. It was juicy and flavorful, had a nicely seasoned crust, and was cooked to a perfect medium rare.
The beef was served with two sauces: roquefort and poivre.
I only took a pic of one because they looked and tasted similar to me, though one was clearly more peppery. Both were drinkable, however. They went especially well with the cone of crispy and savory fries that came with the steak. Delicious.
Next was a bit of offal! Veal kidneys with an amazing mustard sauce, boiled potatoes and spinach.
Kidneys aren't for everyone. This was my first time eating kidney. It was a bit mealy and chewy in parts, but the flavor was delicate and nice. The sauce did a great job of bringing out the game flavors without letting them overpower you. I ate every bite!
For dessert we had classic French creme brulee, and chocolate lava cake.
They were both very nicely executed, well-balanced, and not overly sweet. The cake came with some fresh whipped cream and vanilla ice cream, and the brulee had a nice consistency and with great caramelized sugar on top.
Last, I should also note that the wine selection here is great. Having broadened the scope from French and California wines to include great stuff from New Zealand and South America, Christian and Pamela have modernized their wine ...
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