Sesta Review - Hackney - London - The Infatuation
"Sesta is a modern European small plates spot that feels familiarly Hackney-ish. The reds are chilled, the tea lights are lit, the smacked cucumbers come with a hot sauce that’s more raspberry than chilli, and the 10 or so tables in this intimate space all seem to have a deep-fried olive on them. That’s a good thing. Because Sesta knows its snacks. Fat, crunchy ‘nduja-stuffed olives with ‘aggressive’ aioli are fine little bites, and so are the Welsh rarebit-inspired gooey cheddar scones.
Beyond a compelling natural wine list and those dinky bites, Sesta loses its way a little. The cooking in this restaurant is imaginative on paper, if over familiar in reality. The prawn and stone bass dolma could do with a more generous filling, though a few slices of smoked pork belly with chilli honey works well. Even if an oat-based ice cream for dessert doesn't. Everyone in this snug room, where wine bottles line the wall and a painting of a mutt hangs, seems to be having a nice time—and for a glass of something fun and a bite of something funky in Hackney, Sesta is more of the same.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jake Missing
Coastal Cheddar & Cider Scones
Care less about how you pronounce 'scones' and more about what's going on here. This is an inventive and wonderfully gooey little snack. The cheese isn't baked into the scone but on top, like a crumbly little rarebit. They're soft and salty, with just a background hit of tartness.
video credit: Jake Missing
Prawn And Stone Bass Dolma & Ouzo Butter
There are some good things going on with these dolma, we just wish there was a spoonful more generosity. The leaves aren't cooked to within an inch of their lives and still have some bite and vibrancy to them. While the ouzo butter is an interesting aromatic pool. It's just a shame that the filling is a little skimpy on the prawn and stone bass.
video credit: Jake Missing
Smoked Pork Belly, Fermented Garlic & Chilli Honey
Tender strips of pork belly in a well-balanced sauce that isn't too sweet, but also has a hint of chilli buzz to it? What's not to like? This is an easy choice." - Jake Missing