Michael U.
Yelp
Items Selected:
Grissini and Sourdough with Bordier Salted and Seaweed Butter
Confit of Guinea Hen with Parsnip Mousseline, Green Apple, Spinach
Riso - Cognon Style with Vegetables, Maccagno Cheese and Raspberry Powder
Gnocchi - Potato and Squid Ink Dumplings with Oyster and Orange Scented Crab Soup
Rombo - Roasted Turbot with Asparagus, Caviar, Egg Mimosa and Rosemary scented Miso Sauce
Petto Di Piccione - Pigeon Breast stuffed with Foie Gras Escalope, Polenta with Pain Brioche and Pineapple
Pre-Dessert - Peaches, Apricots, Olives and Lemongrass Ice Cream
Campari - Grapefruit, Cherry, White Chocolate
Souffle al Cioccoiato - Chocolate Souffle with Cucumber Sorbet, Rosemary and Mango
Mango Cream Quenelle, Cream Puff, Raspberry Financier, Chocolate Ganache Tart, Baba au Rhum
Located in The Mandarin Oriental Milano, a ground floor expanse flowing from kitchen to lounge to dining room and outdoor courtyard, Seta was selected for lunch based on the words of trusted palates as well as Bibendum, a 110-min meal showing all the hospitality expected from the brand with cooking that outperforms the Michelin 1* level.
Opened in 2015 and toqued by Antonio Guida, a former 2* Michelin recipient at Il Pellicano in Tuscany, Seta offers a contemporary look at Italian cooking influenced by time in kitchens from Europe to Asia, stints at Pierre Gagnaire and Don Alfonso unmistakably influencing plating as well as flavor profiles, beauty with balance achieved in some of the most unlikely places.
Booked for private events both nights in town, afternoons open with the full menu available in addition to a Business Lunch that varies frequently, it was just past 12h30 that a posh table in the shaded outdoors was suggested, Wi-Fi and reading material kindly offered along with the menu from which four plates were selected, Chef Guida stopping by shortly thereafter and self selecting to add two more at no charge.
Skipping canapes for unknown reasons, instead sending out crisp Grissini and Warm Sourdough with the same Butters offered at Pierre Gagnaire's Twist at The Mandarin Oriental back home, confit Guinea Hen began the menu as an amuse far more memorable than many thanks to Parsnips and Green Apple, a bed of soft Rice thickened by Cheese at the center of herbal Veloute absolutely enchanting with light notes of Raspberry soon to follow.
Not a meal to be rushed, though several suits managed to consume three courses plus wine in sixty minutes or less, course two featured seven black Dumplings under a veil of tentacles with flavors of the ocean front-and-center, a filet of roasted Turbot with Asparagus and Caviar a 'gift' in every sense of the word in a pool of effervescent Miso Mayonnaise.
Not remotely a 'small plates' place, two a la carte courses likely to satisfy most, secondi consisted of a large Pigeon Breast cradling seared Foie Gras atop a bed of Polenta with Breadcrumbs and Pineapple, pre-dessert similarly embracing a sweet/salty juxtaposition as dehydrated Olives punctuated a Sundae with Stonefruits.
Acknowledging that the selected dessert would take twenty minutes, and thus opting to offer one more gratis during the wait, flavors of Campari were presented in a refreshing array of flavors, textures and temperatures, the "Souffle al Cioccoiato" reaching for the ceiling in all its fluffiness and coming across bitter yet elegant with a side-dish of Cucumber Sorbet, Rosemary and Mango.