Eric S.
Yelp
BACK ALLEY CATS
This pre-WWII area of Tokyo certainly lives up to its (rather unflattering) name of "Piss Alley".
Not far from the bright lights of Shinjuku, Golden Gai is a series of dark alleyways, tiny restaurants, and members-only bars. Some find its quirks charming, others believe it to be filthy and restrictive. Consider me in the latter grouping.
More than half of the bars we walked past featured a cover charge of 500-1000¥. One divey place we stopped at charged 700¥ (USD $6.50) for a normal bottle of Sapporo. That was the most we paid for a beer all trip! Keep in mind, that's a domestic akin to Budweiser in the heartland of the USA, so prices like that were really discouraging.
There's lots of signage saying "no photographs".....yeah I'm not about to challenge Japanese customs and wind up in a Tokyo jail cell, so no pictures for moi. To be honest, I was too flustered/intimidated to remember to check-in. On top of this, numerous places explicitly forbid foreigners -- their doors say "members only" and they have no problem being blunt about it.
Most of these places are SUPER small, with 4-8 seats max. The first place we stopped at had absolutely no room for one's legs: in order to let a businessman through, everyone had to stand up, suck in their stomach, and pull in their miniscule barstool just to let him pass by.
Smoking is allowed in all Golden Gai pubs, which is great news for those of you with a nicotine addition, but bad news for those (like me) who prefer not to get cancer whilst on holiday. Secondhand smoke isn't much better than firsthand, something I'd rather do without.
Maybe the funniest part (or saddest, depending on how you feel about public urination) was seeing two guys who I presumed were locals, casually taking a whizz next to a very open walkway. Just standing there, peeing in full view of everyone. THE F*CK?? Did I suddenly get transported to Bourbon Street?? Shameful.
* TL;DR *
Going against the grain with this one, and I don't really care. I'm likely not the target audience for Pee-Pee Street, and again, I don't really care.
In stark contrast to the clean, well-lit areas of Tokyo, Golden Gai is dirty, dingy, and expensive. "Unique" is the most polite term I can think of. Everything struck me as being less-than-friendly to visitors. I didn't feel safe or welcomed in the 1-2 hours we spent here.
You know what, Golden Gai? Keep your elitist asshole-ish ways and overpriced beers. I'll happily take the alternative lifestyles of Harajuku and cheap 'izikayas' of Akihabara anyday.
Like the nasty parts of Chicago's Ukranian Village, I'm better off passing through and not stopping......or pissing.