Steph C.
Yelp
On my last night in New Haven, my roommate and I took three precious hours off from studying for the bar and had a leisurely dinner at Skappo, replete with reminiscence and good food.
The place is lovely, tiny and intimate, run by a precious Italian family. The decor is homey, with warm wood and brick, and hung on the walls are coats of arms and little bells and leaves that give off an almost Christmas-like air of simple festivity. The seating involves a couple of long communal tables, so if you bring a date, I would suggest you request one of the few small tables. We sat at the end of one of the communal ones, though, and it was fine, in part because no one sat right next to us.
The service was extremely friendly. Our waiter was one of the sons, and it was clear that he loved the restaurant as well as engaging with customers. He told stories, asked questions, and would probably have pushed too chatty for some, but he was so amiable and sincere that he got away with it.
The place is a true family restaurant. I believe our waiter's mother was in the kitchen, with his sister making desserts, and another brother's engagement was announced at the top of our menus as well as on a sign in the window. I'm not sure that I've seen such extensive family involvement on the face of a restaurant before.
The food wasn't entirely consistent, but on average it was delicious. The bread and olive oil were good, and we kicked off our meal with the crostini made with "salsa tartufata" and fresh mozzarella. The "salsa tartufata," or "truffle salsa," was a spread made with Umbrian black truffles and mushrooms. The bread was homemade walnut. This should have been amazing, but I didn't love it as much as I'd hoped. A large part of this was that the bread was not fresh or warm. It had a great nutty flavor that worked really well with the mushroom spread, but the temperatures and textures were off. I did like the truffle salsa and cheese, though, and each bite gave off just a bit of that heady truffle fragrance.
Everything else was better. The risotto del giorno was made with dried apricot, pistachio, and plenty of parmigiano. It was rich and creamy, but still savory with a liberal sprinkle of black pepper. The sweet apricot and crunchy toasty pistachio were fabulous counterpoints to the luscious al dente rice. I also enjoyed the farm-raised rabbit braised in a white wine reduction with pancetta. The meat was very tender and tasty, and the preparation was pretty and rustic. There were plenty of sliced carrots and celery and the flavors were reminiscent of a minestrone, with depth and good salt from the fatty pancetta.
My favorite of our dishes was the polpette, eggplant and beef meatballs with a roasted red pepper sauce. Our waiter explained to us that the meatballs were baked rather than fried fo a fluffier lighter texture, and the effect was tremendous. There was no crust to the meatballs, which was just fine, and they were soft and juicy. The eggplant wasn't noticeable, but it was meant to add a little sweetness to the meat and it was successful there. The red pepper sauce was also nice, very rich and earthy.
For dessert we asked for our waiter's two favorites, and both were stellar. First was a bowl of what was essentially cannoli filling, lightly sweet whipped ricotta with fig, apricot, and raisins folded in. I didn't know what to make of it the first bite, but I couldn't stop eating it. The ricotta was delightfully airy and the chewy bits of dried fruit added great texture and sweetness. Even better was a warm chocolate cake served with whipped cream and a strawberry compote. I don't generally flip for chocolate desserts, but this one was fantastic. It was moist and fluffy rather than dark and dense, and there was something sweet in the cake itself that was more akin to something like sweet potato than chocolate. The whipped cream was fresh and the compote was a pleasant tart accompaniment. It was a simple and delicious dessert, and I wish I had the recipe.
My roommate and I shared glasses of chardonnay and Montepulciano and both were good full-bodied wines that did well with the food. We sat and ate and talked and spent some quality time building a memorable evening. We had a wonderful dinner, and I hope one day to make it back.