Brandon C.
Yelp
Jonathan Gold always told us to look out for the strip mall restaurants. He's right.
Given the seasonal-rotational menu, the omakase at $95 seems like a great way to experience Soregashi, but I generally like to order whatever I like, especially as the seasons provide new ingredients I can order.
Onto the food.
Usuzukuri is their special dish. It's hirame (fluke, not halibut!) that's cut so thin it's nearly transparent. It comes with a ponzu sauce, some daikon-chile paste, green onion, and lemon. The manager will recommend to mix the ponzu with the paste but will ultimately say to just eat however you like. The hirame is pretty mild, slightly sweet, and instead of being overly chewy, is a bit soft, will melt slightly in your mouth, and is a great way to open a meal. They seem to serve this first because it's mild and you want to experience the dish without blowing out your tastebuds.
Soregashi does know their audience, though. They also serve a California roll. However, this is with real crab. When I asked to confirm it wasn't krab, the manager looked almost offended. The fact I gave him such momentary distain means I clearly went to the right spot. There's baked crab, cucumbers, and avocado. It's soft, crunchy, and essentially the Platonic ideal of a California roll since they don't cut corners and use quality ingredients.
For my last visit:
We started with madai nigiri (sea bream). The fish was soft and slightly crunchy with a sea-touched flavor with some sweetness. It's a good fish to start with but would absolutely get lost if it was eaten after a few sushi courses. It's pretty mild.
From the special menu, we ordered the live ama ebi (spot prawn, sweet shrimp, sometimes called botan ebi [different!]). The heads come fried; the manager asked to confirm we wanted that. I'm not sure if they serve head-in miso soup, but I like it fried and it looked only lightly battered, possibly with a non-tempura blend. They were sweet, creamy, and with a soft crunch. The heads were crispy and to pay attention to detail, Soregashi cuts out the eyes. For some proteins, the eyes can be bitter, so this was a detail I took a note of but didn't necessarily need. The heads sit in a small pile of salt, so they're extra salty. I didn't need this, but that's a matter of taste. Generally, they seem to get flash frozen ama ebi, but seasonally, they can get live shrimp, such as right now.
The mirugai ("jumbo clam" or "giant clam" or geoduck) was also served nigiri style. The meat was crunchy, sweet, and also sweet. To compare to the ama ebi, it was less creamy and with a lot more crunch and sweetness. There was a particularly toothsome mouthfeel that was satisfying. Apparently this comes from Seattle.
We also tried nasumiso, which is eggplant smothered in a sweet miso sauce. The eggplant tasted broiled since it had some crispy parts to it at the edges. The meat was generally soft but there were some crunchier parts in the flesh to provide a great texture. The sauce covering it was great and vaguely tasted like a teriyaki mixed with a lot of miso (which makes sense given the shared ingredients). The sesame seeds also added an extra flavor.
We ordered the kaarage (Japanese fried chicken). They only use free-range Jidori chicken. The batter is fairly light and the chicken is not in large pieces. It's served with lemon but otherwise is not strongly seasoned. This could have used some more salt and pepper in the batter, at least. However, the kaarage had a very crispy texture and maintained all the juice of the chicken thighs.
Coho salmon was on the seasonal menu. The standard menu had king salmon. To compare and contrast, the coho was soft, buttery, and the salmon oil mostly came out at the end. For the king salmon, the flesh was even softer than the coho, but the flavor was more mild. The oily flavor was present throughout as opposed to just coming out at the very end in a flavor bomb.
Shima aji (trevally, striped jack) was oily, but also very meaty and firm.
Golden eye snapper aka kinmedai is quite pleasant. The flavor is very clean and the texture is probably appealing to people who like softer white fishes. It seems they quickly boil the skin to crisp it a bit.
The greatest part of the meal was the dobin-mushi. This is an ultra seasonal dish that focuses on matsutake mushrooms. Served in a teapot, it's served in a container with flavored dashi, fish, shrimp, ginko, mitsuba, and, of course, the all important matsutake mushroom. The mushrooms give the teapot of soup an amazingly complex piney and fishy flavor. This is served with a small portion of sodachi (tastes like a sweeter lemon and orange) to temper the flavors. This must be tried to get the Soregashi experience. Fall seems to the right time.
As winter approaches, they should get some firefly squid (hotaru ika) for an appetizer. Research says to expect the eyes to be cut.