Emmett T.
Yelp
I have enjoyed the proliferation of omakase exclusive Japanese restaurants that have popped up over the past year in the SD area. Surfing Chef Maruyama has branched out from his roots at Taka Sushi to open Sushi MARU on the ground level of the Stanza Little Italy building in the Cortez Hill neighborhood. The sushi bar could seat 10 diners and had two dinner seatings each night from Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations can be made using Tock. Twenty courses plus dessert were served over two plus hours at a cost of $180 per person which was on par with the local competition.
My visit occurred within the first week of the grand opening. The bar setup was simple yet elegant like each of the SD omakase experiences I have tried so far. One diner on the opposite end had a few food allergies which made me wonder why he chose omakase for a meal. Nonetheless, Chef Maru-san and his staff made modifications to the offerings that met the customer's dietary restrictions. For the rest of us, the May seasonal menu was presented in this order...
* Starter - Japanese cucumber, seaweed, hairy crab, nasturtium
* Appetizer - Hokkaido scallop with myoga ginger, firefly squid, Pacific oysters, otoro from behind the gill and chutoro
-- Nigiri, part one
* Halibut (Hirame)
* Bluefin Tuna Belly (Chutoro)
* Striped Jack (Shima-aji)
* Giant Clam (Mirugai)
* Rosy Seabass (Nodoguro)
* Bluefin Tuna Back, marinated (Zuke)
* Warm Dish - Steamed halibut with hairy crab stock (dashi)
-- Nigiri, part two
* Flounder Fin (Engawa)
* Scallop, konbu-wrapped (Hotate)
* Hairy Crab, chopped including the head and brain (Kegani)
* Sea Urchin, Hokkaido (Uni)
* Spanish Mackerel (Aji)
* Seasonal Simmered Dish - Saki and salt stock, carrot, yellow zucchini, turnip, brussels sprouts
-- Nigiri, part three
* Abalone (Awabi) with liver and saki sauce
* Salmon Egg (Ikura)
* Red Bream (Kinmedai)
* Sea Eel (Anago)
* Soup - Hairy crab with red and white miso
* Dessert - Panna cotta with blackberry and strawberry
The chef noted that hairy crab was in season so he made it a point to present the item in three different preparations. This was my first encounter with Kegani which I appreciated. Nothing on the menu was fried and even the use of a blowtorch to sear some fish was judicious. The other highlights for me were the giant sea clam and konbu-wrapped scallop which each had a clean, simple taste.
There was plenty of interaction with the chef as he explained each course as it was presented. I peppered him with some questions like where a particular fish was sourced. All of the vegetables came from Chino Farms as the supplier. At the end of the session, you could re-order any item a la carte if it was still in stock. WIth the quality of the seafood used and the excellent presentation of each course, dinner at Sushi MARU was no doubt a five star experience.