Marilyn T.
Yelp
The concept here reminded me a little bit of RAW, which we tried about 1 year ago - traditional Taiwanese dishes with local ingredients but presented in a more modern way.
The sommelier was knowledgeable, and they had a pretty reasonable selection (high mark up on some bottles). By the glass, pours were a bit on the small side.
Onto the food..
Amuses:
- Vegetarian "duck" (素鵝): tofu skin wrapped around vegetables - impressive smoked flavor
- Caviar and apple filled puff
- Thousand year old egg and chestnut fritter: like the taro pork fritter at dim sum
1. Barley veloute with winter black truffle; mustard greens and peanut bao: the flavors of the bao together were kind of like guabao. The soup was very smooth and had some pretty mountain yam swirled into it. The two together was a bit random, but it worked ok.
2. Bread service: mini baguette, fermented tofu pastry snail (like croissant dough in a roll), and egg bread with house butter. The fermented tofu one was the standout for me - rich and flaky with just the right amount of fermented tofu (豆腐乳), which has a cheesy flavor.
3. Taiwanese Beluga caviar, dragon beard vegetables, chayote, clam, bonito flakes, citrus. Who knew Taichung produced caviar?! This was an interesting way to have caviar since you don't usually have it with acidic things; that said, the other flavors were quite strong and overpowered the caviar unless you tried it on its own. On its own, it tastes less like the sea than regular caviar.
4. Oyster "pancake": soft cooked duck egg with duck egg floss and seasonal greens, topped with oyster pancake sauce.
5. Heirloom tomato collection, lotus root, stracciatella, basil sorbet, olive dust: 7 types of Taiwanese heirloom tomatoes including dehydrated, candied, peeled, and fresh tomatoes. This was a great, fresh dish.
6. Daikon flower, yuba cream, spare rib, aged dried daikon, carrot shaoxing bouillon - like a rich deconstructed spare rib soup.
7. Chicken wing stuffed with braised abalone, served over a Taiwanese vegetable "chimichurri". I felt like a seafood only menu for the night, so instead of the chicken wing, I got a plate of seared abalone served with kale, tender broccoli stems, and house sesame sauce, which I was happy with.
8. Red coral grouper, preserved vegetable, celery sofrito, squid: tender but a bit under salted. (Not sure why I got a different dish for the seafood menu, but I'm glad I did.) For mine, I had poached lobster topped with a fried emmental cheese crisp. Underneath was an aioli that reminded me of Burger King whopper mayo - it was supposed to be reminiscent of a shrimp and mayo salad.
9. Miyazaki wagyu beef with truffle sauce, Brussels sprouts, kale. The beef was tougher than expected. For my fish option, I had a local fish with shaoxing foam, pea risotto, and broccolini.
10. Hawthorn sorbet in the center of a smoked plum floating island, crisp blueberry topping - a unique palate cleanser, but the ume floating island had kind of a medicinal taste that lingered.
11. Tairroir "pineapple cake": salted egg square cookies with chocolate cream and pineapple cream sandwiched inside, dehydrated pineapple, and pineapple sorbet. This was a great dessert featuring local flavors but a very different presentation. I loved this dessert.
12. Petit four cart: each person picks 3 from a really impressive cart that they wheel table-side to go with your coffee or tea:
- Canele: a mini one with great texture and solid rum flavor - I wish I had gotten 3 of these!
- Starfruit pate de fruit: interesting take on the traditional french petit four
- Corn puff: like kettle corn and salted caramel in a cream puff
- Chocolate almond: not too sweet, rich chocolate
- Raspberry madeline
- Candied strawberry shortcake
In my experience, the Michelin starred experience in Taiwan has been fairly different from what you expect for 2 starts in SF/NY or in Europe. When Tairroir got their 2nd star this year, I was curious to check it out. They really stepped up the experience compared to most of the other Taiwan places we tried, and it was much more on par with what you would expect for a similar experience in Japan or Europe.
I appreciate the concept of highlighting local ingredients and flavors in a refined setting. If you're looking for a change of pace in Taipei (I'm usually there more for street food and casual stuff), Tairroir is definitely worth visiting.