Kevin K.
Yelp
Famous original Taishoken...
A question commonly asked by visiting relations to NYC is about Ray's pizza. What exactly made Ray's so original or famous, and was it owned by Ray? The general answer is...nothing, really. It's a series of local vinnie joint slinging orange oil foldable slices, and the owner is not typically Ray - most of the lore out there were invented to fit a narrative convenient to an establishment. A similar situation can be said about Taishoken (大勝軒).
Do a search for 大勝軒 on tabelog (Japan's dominant restaurant review site) in Tokyo, and you'll average 2 per 'hood as that name is popular for Chinese restaurants. Even before Masayasu Sakaguchi 坂口正安 opened his in Nakano, there were others. The name Taishoken earned fame later as the ramen style tsukemen was invented in one. The lore popularized by David Chang was that Kazuo Yamagishi 山岸一雄 worked as an apprentice at his cousin Masayasu's shop, and he threw together a staff meal dipping chilled ramen scraps onto cool soup like soba noodles in dashi, customers saw it and wanted some. When Yamagishi-San opened his own store in Ikebukuro later in 1965 he put it on the menu, calling it mori-soba (it certainly wasn't at cousin Masa's shop back in Nagano). He was admired for his work ethic, generosity band solid cooking in a small shop, to the point when he closed up in 2006 due to health issues, many mourned its loss.
A more nuanced version is that Sakaguchi and Yamagishi were members in a circle of folks who moved from the Nagano region to Tokyo, and they swapped recipes and practices within a noren-kai 暖簾会 informal business association. Since some had soba maker backgrounds it was natural to use soba serving practices on staff meals. Tsukemen was something informal passed around and no one owns it - the technique wasn't trademarked and no set recipe established as it wasn't invented as much as a "garbage bowl" hack that was kept in the circle but somehow made popular.
This place traces its lineage from Taishoken Nakano, not Ikebukuro - most overseas visitors to the Nakano Broadway mall (big Otaku paradise) would've exited north from the JR Chuo line train station instead of south towards the place, and it's just a small self-service mom-n-pop. You buy a ticket, hand it to the staff, pour yourself a glass of iced water, do the condiments and they serve up a (hopefully) tasty bowl - eat, say your thanks and leave, no tipping necessary. Is that a bad thing? No...the Ikebukuro store was opened by a Yamagashi apprentice in 2011 and supervised by the old man until he passed away 2015, but it's now considered rather "meh". The one in Nakano in contrast is a solid local eatery. It's not the "good stuff" like Ganja Honten 頑者本店 (a well known modern Tsukemen shop) in Kawagoe, but it's quite satisfying.
So how does it translate stateside? Well, it's a similarly solid bowl of mom-n-pop, but instead of paying 1350 Yen (9 USD) for a set of self-serve Tokusei, it's 21 USD, full service and 20% tipping in a large-ish place. Apps were windstorm calamari - 6 pieces of squid with a bunch of chili crisps and the dumplings were 7 to an order, but neither one really stands out. The tsukemen were solid - not the best I've had, but the broth (usually served warm and the noodles cool) is rich and had distinct porky/seafood-y flavors - the spicy one had some chili miso added which enhanced its flavors significantly - don't forget to ask for hot dashi to do the wari 割り, which is to say, dilute the gravy-like soup with broth at the end to enjoy with the remaining noodles (I almost never need it in Japan but it'a almost always available DIY) - What isn't great however is the tab, which for 2 with 2 apps and a beer is close to 95 USD. Granted that I paid almost as much at Okiboru tsukemen at Orchard, but somehow Okiboru seems to taste better (more fixins' and chewier noodles). These kinda places depend on turnover to pay the bills back in Japan, and 1300 yen for a weekly bowl isn't a ridiculous ask. A benjie for 2 though stateside? That's a splurge and I am not sure if the cooking is solid enough to guarantee return business. So yeah...if you are in Japan, partake in Ganja 頑者, just don't tell the local policeman at the koban. If you grab tsukemen in NYC, this one is solid but unless the cooking sharpens or the price goes down a bit, it probably won't warrant too many return visits.