Ritodhi C.
Yelp
Occupying spacious quarters in a colossal strip mall off Kirby, Taro operates as an affordable option for sushi, ramen, and Japanese small plates. The high-ceilinged space features individual tables and booths, Japanese TV, and bass-thumping EDM or anime themed music. On my first visit soon after they had opened, our server was a charismatic young man who was very enthusiastic about their vision. He was easy-going, gave honest suggestions ("don't get that dish"), and really talked up the head chef who apparently trained in Japan and had success out west before launching this venture. Across my two visits, I concluded that there is clearly sound technique and flair for style on display, but the ingredient quality and execution aren't there yet. My thoughts:
Miso soup - could be saltier and richer, but a pretty good take on an essential appetite stimulant. Presented whimsically in an egg-shaped lidded cup and ornamented with lots of green onion and thick-cut tofu.
Pork gyoza - one of the best things on the menu! Crispy base, soft and fragrant interior, high-quality soy sauce.
Crispy Rice - effectively deep-fried sushi rice, which provided nice texture but not much flavor, topped with spicy tuna and jalapeno. The accompanying sauce was savory and a little sweet. Not bad but nothing too exciting.
Spicy Salmon Roll and Baked Crab Roll - nice and refreshing, both worth a shout.
House Special Roll - lightly seared salmon with smoky notes over a California roll with some lemon and salt for brightness. Enjoyed this roll as well.
Sashimi - slices aren't very thick (they are very judicious with the fish in everything) but pretty good for the price. The tuna was better than the salmon interestingly, with a lovely pinkish-red hue, fatty texture, and delicate sweetness.
Ramen - I didn't try any noodle bowls, but my buddy found his to be watery and mediocre
I would highly encourage chewing the ginger, which is (or at least was) a high-end variety imported directly from Japan. It was phenomenal: spicy and sour and sweet, crunchy and soft at the same time, delicately sliced into near-transparent sheets. Didn't think I would ever wax philosophical about a fibrous root, but here we are.
The slices of fish in the sushi are thin but fresh, and Taro traffics in subtle flavors that aren't in your face, which sometimes to me came across as overly muted. The rolls are architecturally sound at least, because there is nothing worse than a roll that pops open on the slightest manipulation. I wanted to like Taro because it has charm, but the menu lacks consistency - maybe third time's the charm ?