Qype User (Nunhea…)
Yelp
A lot of restaurants in Lisbon are closed on Monday so we took the precaution of booking a table at Tasca da Esquina a couple of weeks before our mini break. This was a very good idea as this charming gourmet restaurant, run by the famous Portuguese chef Vitor Sorbal, was absolutely packed by 9pm.
We managed to get a great table in the back room which is very light and airy, a wall of big glass windows providing a good view of the world passing by. The tables are well spaced; simply but beautifully laid with quality cutlery which was very pleasing on the eye and felt great in the hand. The crockery had been similarly well thought out and really complemented the wonderful food.
The front room of the restaurant contains the open plan kitchen and a few bench type tables with high stools; again it's light and airy with white walls and light wood. I'm guessing this would be quite an entertaining place to eat if you like watching chefs at work and seeing the hustle and bustle of a modern, well run kitchen.
To drink we ordered up some water and a bottle of the reasonably priced Quinta do Pinto Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the Lisboa region. Nicely chilled, this was crisp, fresh and a good accompaniment to the food that was to come.
In the evening there are three ways you can go about ordering here. There is the standard type menu which gives you a normal sized portion of a modern take on classic Portuguese dishes such as the Bitoque or baked cod. The is also the option to order from a selection of twenty or so petiscos (a Portuguese variation on the small plate concept) or you can go for the four, five, six or seven portion mystery tasting menu in which you place your meal in the hands of the chef. After much debate we went for one, five portion, tasting menu and a few specific petiscos and just shared the whole lot.
With that out of the way we turned our attention to the olives, bread and the intriguing cheese. Well this was a great start to the meal; the beautifully flavoured, plump juicy olives were the best I tasted during this mini break. The cheese was very special, a small round with a thick but edible skin which contained a runny, pungent yet very flavoursome, centre. Think of a cold fondue and you will not be far off the mark. Wow.
We had too many dishes to recall in any great detail here but on the fishy side of things there was a really good dish of crab mayonnaise which came with very delicate toasts, a beautifully cooked and seasoned rare tuna, a lovely dish of plump little clams which came with a tasty sauce and a delicately flavoured piece of ray which sat on top of small mound of mash and olive oil. Meat highlights were the black pork toasts, wafer thin and strongly flavoured they came on top of an aubergine puree, and the rare sirloin steak.
By this point in the proceeding we were pretty well stuffed and as much as we wanted to partake of a dessert even one to share was beyond. My advice would to make sure that your eyes are not bigger than your belly. Having said that I was very impressed with the two Portuguese chaps who had the table behind us, they managed to devour two seven course tasting menus between them!!
The patrons of this fine establishment seemed in the main to be well heeled locals with the average age somewhere in the 40's. The staff are young, knowledgeable, proud of their trade and eager to help you find a tasty supper.
A very fine dining experience and one which I look forward to trying again when we are next in town.