Rod U.
Yelp
Deep fry anything and it makes it better right? So what happens when you take the freshest, forged this morning greens, plumpest mushrooms, and shrimp dispatched before your eyes and deep fry them? You earn yourself TWO Michelin stars.
This is next level tempura. The oil, a masterful blend including fragrant sesame, is changed, not filtered but thrown out a new oil used every 10 minutes. Two fryers, the first hotter than the second are used to lock in moisture and crisp the batter then to complete the cooking of the seafood or veg. Only the master coats and fries the tempura. His two apprentices continuously prep items.
Fortunate enough to be seated in front of Kondo himself, let the meal begin!
Tip: there are two counters. The first, closest to the entrance, is where Kondo himself cooks. The second is his apprentice/son.
Ordering is simple, three preset menus at different price points. The more expensive uses more luxurious ingredients and does not equal more food.
Lemon, salt, and an incredible dipping sauce are offered. Follow the chef suggestions on what to use. Don't, and he won't reprimand you, simply stop talking to you.
Tip: the restaurants signature sweet potato tempura must be ordered ala carte at the beginning of the meal. It takes over an hour to cook.
All menus begin with to house signature starters. The coldplate includes a sweet shell, marinated fish, and out of this world, almost sweet potato tasting, ankimo (monk fish liver). The warm starter, tofu and broad bean paste wrapped in yuba then poached and served in a konbu aspic with the essence of soy. Elegance.
The tempura, rather than going through the entire list, suffice it to say ingredients are brought in that day from all over Japan. These are the freshest examples of each type of produce. Being spring, asparagus, bitter greens, bulbs, the seasons first sweet onions, all adorn the meal. Each and every tempura showcases the natural flavor of what is being fried. For example, the thick, meaty shiitake explodes with umami supercharged flavor. Hasu, tender and sweet, the perfect example of the root. Onions like the best onion ring you've ever had if it were sprinkled with sugar. Finally the sweet potato. Three inches thick, crispy on the outside without being burnt, perfectly "steamed" on the inside, it's sugary sweetness intensified. Just a bit of salt and this is heaven.
Seafood items are equally good. Sweetness is teased from plump white fish, anago, and shrimp.
All items simply put, the best examples of tempura I've ever had.
Three kinds of beer, one hot, one cold sake for alcohol.
Outstanding service. No fewer than three servers assist three chefs in each 14 seat dining space.
Total check with warm sake and tax, 38,000¥.
Two months advance reservations required. Phone reservations only. Reservations from outside Japan not accepted. English menu available but no English spoken.
Consider carefully before trying this place out. It will forever alter your perception of tempura. You may never like it in your home town again.