Rob H.
Yelp
There are many things that Amersham - my hometown - isn't: exciting; busy; a shopping paradise; filled with things to do; a bastion of culinary excellence (there is a Pizza Express, a Domino's, and a Wimpy. That should tell you all you need to know). You can find it in the far NW corner of the Tube map in that most mythical of zones (Zone 9, formerly known as 6D. Nobody I tell believes that there is a Zone 9). Yet, despite all of its shortcomings, Amersham harbours this gem of a restaurant, its existence rendering my many years as a resident worthwhile.
The Artichoke has been operating since 2002 or thereabouts in a cosy C16th premises. The restaurant went through an 18-month hiatus a few years back when the next-door (and second favourite restaurant in Amersham; coincidentally it was one of my favourite fish restaurants ever in terms of value vs quality. Simple, creative, tasty. RIP Famous Fish) burnt down taking most of this restaurant with it, but much like Harry Potter - without being a cop-out and without a ridiculous deus ex machina - Artichoke has been resurrected, occupying the space of both fire-damaged restaurants. The setting is nice and intimate with low ceiling and retaining most of the charm of the old building before the fire. Since its reopening, The Artichoke has also been awarded a Rising Michelin Star (for what it's worth).
I will admit that I haven't really done much of the fine dining thing in my life. However, I have had some of my most enjoyable meals here and have eaten at a lot swankier (and pricier) places and enjoyed it a lot less. Also, Raymond Blanc likes it, so it can't be that bad. Head Chef and owner Laurie Gear trained in classical French cooking and has spent time at Noma in Copenhagen and promotes fresh, seasonal produce - the menu frequently changes, reflecting this.
The food is, well, beautiful. I remember the first time I went, tried the freshly-baked bread which you get before the starters (he cooks a range of different breads - if you get one of the saffron ones, make sure you have it. They are scrumptuous.) and thinking to myself, "There is no way this meal can be anything below awesome". The dishes are flavourful, subtle, beautifully presented, and portioned perfectly (I've never left feeling hungry or uncomfortably full). The amuses bouches - like everything else - are delightful: for example, I hate waldorf salad - I'm not keen on walnuts, and I've had a lifelong loathing of celery, so when I was a presented with a small glass full of waldorf-inspired goodness, I was a little non-plussed. However, the dish - apple foam with finely chopped celery and walnuts - was simply amazing. I spent the rest of the night in shock.
As the menu changes frequently, it's hard for me to recommend anything and I haven't tried anything off the current menu at the time of writing. The quail ravioli which pops up in the autumn is beautiful, and his fishy mains are always spot on. The dessert menu will leave you with difficult decisions too - they're well-balanced and not too sweet (which Laurie half-jokingly attributes to not hiring a dedicated pastry chef). And as a final send off, the frozen petits fours which come with coffee are a suitable flourish to a fine meal.
The service is friendly but quiet and headed up by Laurie's wife, Jackie. Laurie himself will often take time out to talk to the diners which is a nice touch. As for the damage, three courses costs £45 and the tasting menu £65; wines range from ~£25 to £150 a bottle (and pretty much anywhere in between) which is pretty decent considering the sheer enjoyment I've had at every meal there.
Ultimately, Amersham is 45 minutes out of west London on the A40 (I would recommend driving as the restaurant is about a 15-20 minute walk from the tube station with a large hill in the way) and is so worth the distance. You won't be disappointed.
