The Delhi Brasserie

"Biryani is usually one of the best things on the menu at any Indian restaurant. But when you and your friends have gone all-out and the table’s looking like Johnny Vegas did the ordering, it can get obscured among the other dishes. At Dum Biryani, a new Indian restaurant in Soho, that won’t be the case. Here, the biryani is the focus, and it gets a stage light, a thousand screaming fans, and one of those twin-neck guitars for an epic solo. The elevated version you’ll eat here is the South Indian variety, which lands on your table encased in a flaky pie crust so that the rice beneath doesn’t dry out. Cutting that hot crust open is like hitting a power chord through a Marshall stack - not only will you smell it, you’ll also feel it. While the signature biryanis are the best reason to visit Dum, you should plan to go in on the starters too. The hot wings and stir-fried prawns are must-orders, and yes, they’re great for sharing. It’s also worth noting that you’ll get a lot of food for what you pay, which means that it’s very easy to order more than you can eat. One biryani between two is the sweet spot. Speaking of sweet spots, we love that Dum Biryani has an old school atmosphere while also feeling modern. The scuffed walls and furniture will remind you of period films you’ve seen about India, but the pop art and Tupac over the speakers signal that it’s also a bit trendy. And though Dum looks like it was designed by South Asian hipsters, it’s entirely staffed by their uncles - the service is no-nonsense curry house, in a good way. With superb food and a laid-back atmosphere, it’s easy to recommend Dum for an easy dinner in central London with friends. Bring a crew. Bring your parents. Unlike the average guitar solo, this is one you won’t want to miss." - David Paw