Ana B.
Yelp
TLDR: clashing themes and unclear concept with undereducated staff, subpar service, yet striking highlights like the lumpia and the cocktails, specifically one du jour of a tequila and yellow chartreuse. A better drink and appetizer spot than for a birthday meal. We were rushed, which I hate!
I am the first to admit I had a lot of biases going in. I was really excited for The Duchess to open when they first announced it 2 to 3 years ago after the restaurant group (formerly the Foreman Wolf), bought the Cafe Hon spot a few years ago. It was announced as an English pub, and as an Asian girl I love nothing more than bangers and mash and adore London so much.
But then I started reading about the menu and was immediately turned off, not because I dislike fusion but because it read like colonialism. Again the concept is really unclear, and it is clashing trying to bring in the Mariana Islands pieces to an existing British Pub. I love that Kiku has the opportunity to be a co-owner and head chef of this massive restaurant in Hamden. But it feels like they're trying way too hard to bring something together, and it's clear it's not cohesive. Somebody within the now rebranded Tony Foreman + Co group also explained to me that it was an English pub with food from the Mariana Islands, which to me screams colonialism.
Now I have nothing against this restaurant group in fact, Petit Louis and Cinghiale are two of my absolutely favorite restaurants in the city. I had heard that the Dutchess was not very good which is why it's taken me a minute to go.
This restaurant sits right in the heart of the avenue and provides valet parking which is also an oddity in an of itself, it is $10 which is not bad for valet.
For the interior - it's nicer than what the outside night suggest, but it lacks cohesion, there are nice elements like the entry outdoor sign which a pretty well known woodworker made, but when you step it, you are immediately greeted by three GIANT TVs playing soccer, yet everyone in there is dressed like a Vineyard Vines commercial. It's just SO confusing on a lot of levels.
Now at the main entrance they have an amazing wooden beamed ceiling here and the cool pub-like benches but then by the hostess stand there's this totally clashing "Hafa adai" neon sign which honestly using a 2020 word is CHEUGY and clashes. It's almost like they already had a theme and tried to put cultural elements that clearly don't work for a British pub theme.
We were seated in the back room which is MASSIVE in the corner booth by the restrooms. It honestly feels like two different restaurants. The cute booths slowly lost its cute intimacy when I realized no server could reach any item on the other side of the table. It seems really odd to me that everyone that works in this restaurant feels like a newby. Like have they worked at other restaurants before?
First of all, when I say undereducated staff I mean they have no idea what they're trying to sell food wise. Our waitress tried to explain tteokboki to me, and she said, it's like gnocchi and then stumbled around and then ended it like saying it's like mac and cheese. I was absolutely floored.
I feel like I worked during this dinner service, I've never had service where the staff literally waited for me to make room on our table to set things down. I'm always cognizant and try to help but this was blatant waiting until we had to move our dishes and set them down.
With the four of us, we love to eat at restaurants so ordered pretty much 85% of the menu, including specials. That said, during our entrees, which we got four, they started to ask if we wanted boxes. We were still eating!
I. ABSOLUTELY. HATE. BEING. RUSHED without communication, when there is no set dining hours or restrictions on tables. There is a graceful way to ask your patrons to leave. I don't understand why this happens, and I think it's because they're trying to make money and turn over tables quickly, but we were celebrating my birthday, and we didn't even finish eating. We also had ordered a round of cocktails and a massive amount of food. They asked if we wanted boxes three times in the span of five minutes. Outrageous.
I will say they did bring me out a free complimentary glass of prosecco for my birthday, which was very kind but it was awkward as I was the only one drinking it by the end of the meal. They did put a candle on our shaved ice we ordered.
All in all, I wish they would've sold this as a Chamorro restaurant because the food is pretty good, especially for the area. There are misses like the majority of the meat dishes, the cuts of meat were dry, and the short rib was an absolute travesty, I couldn't taste a single element, I think there was peanut?
I hope they will read this review and take the service elements to heart and adapt, as I would love to be a regular here, but I will forever be floored with the lack of service and rushing.