David R.
Yelp
Glorious.
Real, legitimate history and old-fashioned service: countless places try and fail to evoke this ideal but it cannot be faked. In look and feel, Glunz Tavern is a genuine early 20th-century throwback. It was originally founded in 1888 by a forebear of the proprietors who re-established it in 2012, and I can't imagine it being any better in 1888 than it is today.
Although now I would happily sit here for hours enjoying beer and soaking in the atmosphere, the purpose of my original visit was to scratch a gustatory itch. Something intangible about the onset of serious autumn this year made me long for a big Bavarian pretzel. Then looking through the photos of a trip sparked a hard craving for German food in general. Finally, a piece in TimeOut previewing 2013 restaurant trends gave me a concrete target--Glunz Tavern. "[Its] menu includes a warm pretzel with Düsseldorf mustard; Thuringer sausages simmered in Bavarian-style sauerkraut with potatoes; and späetzle überbacken, a spaetzle gratin with Black Forest ham and Gruyere." SOLD!
I ate all of those things, and ironically the pretzel was dry and disappointing. Everything else, however, was outstanding. I started with the beet salad, with mache greens, shallots, pistachios, goat cheese, and caraway and sherry vinaigrette--a practically perfect version of one of my favorite dishes.
The späetzle überbacken is essentially German macaroni and cheese, but it obliterates all but the very best of its American cousins. Between ham, gruyere, and caramelized onions, this dish is almost impossibly rich and should be shared...or taken home to eat as leftovers to stretch out the pleasure over multiple meals. For the sausage dish, I requested one of each, the bratwurst and the smoked Thuringer; of these I far preferred the latter, but the best thing on the plate was the sauerkraut--far, far superior to the sour, stringy stuff from a can that gets thrown indiscriminately onto various sausages in this town.
I am sorry that it took me until March to come in, because there are many more tantalizing items on the menu, as well as thoughtful and compelling daily specials. Besides a small but satisfying selection of imported draft beer, they offer a classic cocktail menu, and their bar staff is as adept at crafting these drinks as the kitchen staff is at the food dishes.
From excellent food and drink to gracious, good-humored service to the unique history and atmosphere, I just love this place. Dare I say that Glunz Tavern is my new favorite bar/restaurant in Chicago? Yes, I dare.